#31
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Well unless the amps are intentionally "voiced" differently by mucking with their sonics then one would expect they should be very similar. So many people believe more power will yield a different result whether it's actually there or not, it's the mentality that bigger has to be better.
Most compaines don't advertise that amp x at 600 watts is better than amp y at 300 watts, it's the consumer that wants to believe this. There are compaines like Bryston for example that publicly state the only change as you go up the wattage ladder is just that, the wattage, the amp's signature sound reamins the same so you should pick the amp you want based on your needs or budget. |
#32
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Quote:
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MC452, NAD M12, Oppo 103, JL E110, Totem Element Fire, Sony HAP-Z1ES. Last edited by Spinpsycho; 10-09-2015 at 02:23 PM. |
#33
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Ohhh boy....do you really wanna open that can of worms....
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#34
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..not really
It's the biggest unsolved mysteries of the Audio World..
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MC452, NAD M12, Oppo 103, JL E110, Totem Element Fire, Sony HAP-Z1ES. |
#35
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For amps as long the design is the same and the wattage stays the same then the one with the higher wattage is just that, capable of more output so it should sound the same. There can be a caveat here, for example Bryston amps run there 1st few percentage of watts in Class A then switch over to AB, I think it's between 5% and 10% so at lower volumes for example a 28B may be running in Class A where say a 3B or 4B would be in AB mode at the same wattage so there can be audible differences because of that. Once both are in AB at a given wattage then there should be little to no difference. Now if you are comparing amps from a manufacturer that are clearly different designs then like SS to tube it's apples to oranges as far as I'm concerned and there ma very well be differences. |
#36
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#37
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Well, if the comparison is a 683 to an 805 plus sub, the 805 would absolutely mop the floor with the 683 (or something in the 700 Series).
805 with sub vs 804, I would expect the 805 to be best. 805 with sub vs 804 with sub, I would expect the 804 to prevail. On subs--I would go with one of the B&W subs such as my DB3D. Virtually instant and seamless integration with the iPhone app
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Clearaudio Ovation with Tracer Dynavector KARAT 17DX Naim Uniti Core Schiit Yggdrasil McIntosh C22/MC275 Wilson TuneTots B&W DB3D Nordost QKore/QBase/Frey 2 Transparent Super IsoAcoustics GAIA II Stax SR-009S with SRM-700T |
#38
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Question about DB3D, please. When connected with Left and Right RCAs, does sub work in stereo mode? Does it produce independent left-right stereo bass by each left and right drivers - or does it combine stereo signals input into one output, and drives move symmetrically?
Asking because my current setup is 2.2 with two left-right ASW 10CM subs. Thinking to upgrade subs, can't decide taking one DB3D or pair of DB4S Thank you! |
#39
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Quote:
__________________
Clearaudio Ovation with Tracer Dynavector KARAT 17DX Naim Uniti Core Schiit Yggdrasil McIntosh C22/MC275 Wilson TuneTots B&W DB3D Nordost QKore/QBase/Frey 2 Transparent Super IsoAcoustics GAIA II Stax SR-009S with SRM-700T |
#40
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Thank you!
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