#1
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Refoam of f113
I recently acquired a used f113 that must have been really abused by the previous owner.
I'm considering replacing the surround foam the driver myself, because of a large rip in it. I was curious if any of you have tackled this task, and would like to hear your thoughts / story. Looking at the way the driver is installed, it appears to me that complete disassembly would be required... Any thoughts? |
#2
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I’ve reformed several drivers. Not difficult, more tedious that anything. The hardest part is finding the appropriate surround. If you can get one from JL you’ll be miles ahead. Then it’s removing the old surround without damaging the cone. That’s the tedious part.
Now I use a local company that rebuilds drivers, mostly musical instrument ones. If you are not concerned about appearance, you can use a flexible silicone adhesive to repair the tear in the surround.
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v |
#3
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I have the confidence in myself to perform the refoam,
I guess my real question is how to remove the driver from the cabinet, besides exploratory surgery... |
#4
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There are a few you tube videos on how to do this. It doesn't appear to be to difficult.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mqi6-pGNdo
__________________
Paul Speakers: Von Schweikert VR-5 Anniversary MK II Front L/R, LCR-35 Center, VR-1 Rear L/R Sub: JL Audio F113 Amps: PS Audio BHK Signature 300 Mono, McIntosh MC207 Pre-Amp PS Audio BHK Signature and Gold Note PH-10 Phono Stage/PSU-10 Power Supply Turntable: VPI HR-X 12.7 TONEARM (2) and SDS, Stillpoints LPI Tape Deck Otari 5050B II2 Music Server: Aurender N100H Cartridges: Ortofon Cadenza Black, Lyra Helikon Mono Digital Source: Oppo UDP-205 DAC: Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE SSP: Marantz AV8801 Cables: Wireworld Electra 7 (P) Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7, Shunyata Delta NR (I) Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 (S) Wireworld Platinum Starlight 7 (USB) AC Power Regeneration: PS Audio DirectStream P15 Power Plant and Shunyata Denali 6000s V2. |
#5
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I've watched all of the videos that I could find, and have reformed speakers in the past. So I have accepted the challenge of repairing the driver.
I'm assuming I'll have to remove the amplifier off the rear, to get to the fasteners.... |
#6
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Have you looked thru Dan's thread on working on the F113? May be some useful info on the amp removal, etc.
https://www.audioaficionado.org/showthread.php?t=43298
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Glenn... Canton Reference 9 Clearaudio SM Pro Focal Bathys JLA 10" Dominion Kuzma Stabi S w/MC & MM Magnepan 1,7i McIntosh MA8950 & MR88 Oppo 203 Roon Nucleus Rose Hifi RS150B Shunyata Gemini-4 Sony ST-A6B, TA-F6B, ST-J75 & PS-X75 Sorane SA1.2 & TA-1L Stillpoints LP1v2 WW Pt, Au & Ag |
#7
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I have, thanks!
There is no doubt, that is valuable information....[emoji16] |
#8
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I always thought of a subwoofer cone like your best friends girlfriend; you don’t touch it! All kidding aside, after watching the re-foaming video I had no idea how robust the components of the subwoofer appear to be. He wasn’t too bashful about handling any of it. It was interesting to watch and see how you take everything apart, and put it back together. Thanks for posting....
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#9
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Not sure if you completed this repair, but here is a video I made of how to remove the woofer. I have refoamed about 6 JL Fathom subs... I have also refoamed about 100 woofers/speakers over the past 25 years...
The Fathom subs are not difficult and they are much more forgiving than a high efficient fragile paper cone speaker! So you can be a little rough with them and be ok. I personally like to play bass music through my subs while I am conducting the refoam.... It helps to push the woofer up to mate with the foam. Once they mate, you can keep pressing the cone/foam together and the bond gets stronger. Bass music playing also automatically seats the voice coil in perfect alignment and you can confirm that while making the repair in real time. After bonding is solid I get a fan blowing on the woofer to help dry the glue. I like to use Simply Speakers refoam kits. They have the best glue and the foam is the correct proper color. Hope that helps! Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymxytVlWy6k |
#10
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Thank you so much!
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