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#1
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I recently acquired a used f113 that must have been really abused by the previous owner.
I'm considering replacing the surround foam the driver myself, because of a large rip in it. I was curious if any of you have tackled this task, and would like to hear your thoughts / story. Looking at the way the driver is installed, it appears to me that complete disassembly would be required... Any thoughts? |
#2
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I’ve reformed several drivers. Not difficult, more tedious that anything. The hardest part is finding the appropriate surround. If you can get one from JL you’ll be miles ahead. Then it’s removing the old surround without damaging the cone. That’s the tedious part.
Now I use a local company that rebuilds drivers, mostly musical instrument ones. If you are not concerned about appearance, you can use a flexible silicone adhesive to repair the tear in the surround.
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v |
#3
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I have the confidence in myself to perform the refoam,
I guess my real question is how to remove the driver from the cabinet, besides exploratory surgery... |
#4
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There are a few you tube videos on how to do this. It doesn't appear to be to difficult.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mqi6-pGNdo
__________________
Paul Speakers: Von Schweikert VR-5 Anniversary MK II Front L/R, LCR-35 Center, VR-1 Rear L/R Sub: JL Audio F113 Amps: PS Audio BHK Signature 300 Mono, McIntosh MC207 Pre-Amp PS Audio BHK Signature and Gold Note PH-10 Phono Stage/PSU-10 Power Supply Turntable: VPI HR-X 12.7 TONEARM (2) and SDS, Stillpoints LPI Music Server: Aurender N100H Cartridges: Ortofon Cadenza Black, Lyra Helikon Mono Digital Source: Oppo UDP-205 DAC: Bryston BDA-3 SSP: Marantz AV8801 Cables: Wireworld Electra 7 (P) Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7, Shunyata Delta NR (I) Wireworld Silver Eclipse 7 (S) Wireworld Platinum Starlight 7 (USB) AC Power Regeneration: PS Audio DirectStream P15 Power Plant and Shunyata Denali 6000s V2. |
#5
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I've watched all of the videos that I could find, and have reformed speakers in the past. So I have accepted the challenge of repairing the driver.
I'm assuming I'll have to remove the amplifier off the rear, to get to the fasteners.... |
#6
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Have you looked thru Dan's thread on working on the F113? May be some useful info on the amp removal, etc.
https://www.audioaficionado.org/showthread.php?t=43298
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Glenn... Canton Ref 9K Cary SLP-98P & Rocket 88 Clearaudio SM Pro Denon DP-80 w/AT33R, AT-MONO3/LP, Dynavector XX2 MKII, Lyra Kleos, Ortofon Cdza Blk, K-b & OM30 Dual 701 K&K LL9226 SUT Jelco HS-25 Nordost Valhalla Oppo 203 Orsonic AV-1b Sony ST-J75 & TA-F6B Stax UA-7/CF Stillpoints LP1 WW 8/7 Pt, Au & Ag Yamamoto HS-2 & 4 Zu Omen DW |
#7
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I have, thanks!
There is no doubt, that is valuable information.... ![]() |
#8
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I always thought of a subwoofer cone like your best friends girlfriend; you don’t touch it! All kidding aside, after watching the re-foaming video I had no idea how robust the components of the subwoofer appear to be. He wasn’t too bashful about handling any of it. It was interesting to watch and see how you take everything apart, and put it back together. Thanks for posting....
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