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RF Universal Remotes
Looking to replace an out-of-date RF Universal remote system (URS MSC-400 base). My A/V set-up includes HT (MX 121 processor) with MVP891 or Oppo 205, cable, Panasonic Kuro TV, Apple TV and 2-channel (C2600 pass-through for HT) with Esoteric N-05 and G-02 (understand that it may not be possible to program it for Esoteric). Curious if anyone has a good replacement RF universal remote system solution they would recommend.
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McIntosh: MC 1.2kW, C1100, MX123, MC8207, MVP901 Esoteric: D-02X & G-01X, Aurender: W20 SE Paradigm: Persona 7F, C5v3, ADP3, JL Audio: F113v2, CR-1, Shunyata: Everest, Denali 6000/Sv2, Altera Shunyata and WW: PCs, SCs and ICs. |
#2
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I use Logitech Harmony.
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#3
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Amps:VAC 450iQ Monos in Silver Flake on HRS M3X2-1921's, HRS G7 Footers/G-Links & Sound Anchor Conecoasters. Preamp:VAC Statement (on order) (Silver Flake) Digital Source: dCS Rossini CD/SACD Transport, Vivaldi APEX DAC, Upsampler Plus & matching Clock (Silver) Analogue Preamp:VAC Renaissance SE Phono stage in Silver Flake with XLR Output Option & with Nordost Valhalla XLR's. Analogue Sources:SME 20/2 w/SME V arm & Nordost Odin 2 Tone Arm Cable, Palo Santos Presentation Cartridge & Akai GX-400D Reel-to-Reel w/relapped heads by JRF Magnetic Sciences. Akai RC-17 cabled remote (original owner since 1974). Vibration Control:TT on HRS M3X2-1921 shelf. Speakers:Wilson Audio Alexia V (on order in Ferrari Argento Silver/Parchment grills sitting on Acoustic Diode Kit). Power Cables:4 Nordost Odin Supreme Reference on amps, preamp & DAC. Ansuz Acoustics C2 on Transport & Clock. Power Distribution:Ansuz Mainz D3 Distributor & Ansuz Mainz C2 1M Power Cable Power Outlets:Furutech GTX-D NCF (R) duplex outlet, GTX Wall Plate & Duplex Cover (x2) on dedicated, same panel phase, 20A breakers. Speaker Cables:2M Nordost Odin 2 Supreme Reference on Nordost Sort Lifts. Signal Cables:Nordost Odin XLR's on dCS DAC & Amps. Digital Cables: Nordost Odin 2's, 110-ohm AES/EBU on dCS Transport to DAC. Clock Cables:5 each 75 ohm 1.25M Nordost Valhalla BNC/BNC Digital Ethernet Cable: WireWorld Platinum 1M Starlight® 8 Twinax Headphones:Vintage Koss Pro IV AA. RCM: Audio Desk PRO Tube Test Gear:Mint late '60's/calibrated Heathkit TT-1A, MaxiMatcher Power Amp & Preamp & Space Tech Labs ATT-3.02 tube test sets. |
#4
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I also use a Logitech Harmony remote. For $50 you can't go wrong.
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Paul Harbeth 40.3 XD, Sound Anchor stands w/ Stillpoints, Luxman M900 & C900, Aurender N20, Jay's Audio CDT3 - MK3 CD player, Mola Mola Tambaqui DAC, Shunyata Everest, Altaira |
#5
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I like the Harmony 650, too. But it's an IR remote, not RF.
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#6
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Looks like for RF you need the Harmony Ultimate at about $185 if you can't get IR to work.
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Paul Harbeth 40.3 XD, Sound Anchor stands w/ Stillpoints, Luxman M900 & C900, Aurender N20, Jay's Audio CDT3 - MK3 CD player, Mola Mola Tambaqui DAC, Shunyata Everest, Altaira |
#7
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I'm interested in hearing other responses. I wanted RF because IR is impossible to aim at my components from where I sit in the room.
I have the MX1200 and MSC400 base because I wanted one remote. I needed a serviceman to program it for me since I'm "remotely impaired" (that was a bad pun). These are not easy to program unless you are a computer guru. After programming, it has to be tested on your system in person. You can't send it away with a list of your components and expect it to work properly when it is shipped back. If you get this type of system unless you have many remotes you wish to consolidate and have a great number of functions you need on it and are really good at programming these things, which I am not, it will be overkill. If you change any components, you will need it re-programmed. Last edited by GaryProtein; 01-31-2018 at 01:49 PM. |
#8
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Quote:
The Logitech is one of the easiest to use and easiest to program. But you definitely have to have at some computer knowledge. Maybe a friend can help you set it up. Once it is set up properly, it should just work. Maybe someone else can chime in with other options. |
#9
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Quote:
The Elite is worth the money in my opinion. Easy to program using the iPad app or a computer, but the app is better. Tip: the best thing we did to get this working seamlessly in our media room is give everything ample time (like 8 seconds or more) to turn on before sending more commands. HDMI handshaking, the bane of home theaters these days, was the biggest headache solved by adequate turn-on timing and getting the turn-on sequence right.
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Main - Roon on Synology/Sonos Port/SoTM Neo endpoints; Chord Qutest, Bryston BP-17 cubed with phono option; EAT C-sharp with Ortofon Bronze MM, Bryston cubed Amplifier; Revel F126Be on custom Atocha stands; interconnects by WireWorld, furniture by Atocha Design 'Phones Audeze LCD-3, Bryston BHA-1; Office: Sonos/Roon; OPPO HA-1, Naim NAP100 and PSB Mini-C. Media Room:, Samsung QLED QN90 series, Sonos, OPPO 205, ATI N-core driving KEF LS-50's with REL subs; furniture by Glassisimo; Kids - U-turn for vinyl, Sonos Play5; Summer Shack - Sonos, vintage Pioneer, Dynaudio Special 40's. Last edited by clpetersen; 07-20-2018 at 06:05 PM. |
#10
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RF Universal Remotes
I’ve been using Logitech Harmony remotes for years. I currently use the Harmony Ultimate in my theater setup and the Harmony Companion in the bedroom. I find them easy to program and adjust with either a computer or an iPad, and not much in the way of special skills required. The handheld is comfortable and easy to use, and the iPhone/iPad app can control the system as well. The system actually works over Wi-Fi, not RF, and is pretty consistent.
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Tony D'Agostino Momentum S250 MxV & HD pre; Linn Klimax Organik DSM, SonicTransporter, EtherRegen; Acoustic Signature Typhoon Neo, Koetsu RSP, Boulder 1108; Sf Il Cremonese; Shunyata Everest, Altaira, Sigma & Alpha v2 |
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