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  #51  
Old 02-15-2019, 05:15 PM
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akitared akitared is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucab617 View Post
I'm looking at the C2600 preamp for my setup as well. What cables does everyone recommend? I was looking at the rocket 44 cables. Are these worth it or should I just use my mogami with neutrik connector cables?


My C2600 & MC452

Shunyata Alpha HC power cord
Wireworld Silver Eclipse 8 interconnects
Wireworld Platinum 7 USB
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  #52  
Old 02-15-2019, 08:49 PM
gg9870 gg9870 is offline
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Have C52 preamp. Using Straight Wire Rhapsody S IC cables.
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  #53  
Old 02-19-2019, 01:41 PM
Ym2000 Ym2000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucab617 View Post
I'm looking at the C2600 preamp for my setup as well. What cables does everyone recommend? I was looking at the rocket 44 cables. Are these worth it or should I just use my mogami with neutrik connector cables?
I have c2600 and MC462. Thinking myself of Shunyata Delta or Alpha cables.
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  #54  
Old 02-19-2019, 05:25 PM
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ps7256 ps7256 is offline
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Originally Posted by ps7256 View Post
That is great Bob, I too am finding similar hours for break in, just upgraded power cable and Balanced interconnects.


Upgrade to Audioquest Rockets and also trying Zu Mission MK2’s.
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  #55  
Old 02-24-2019, 12:49 PM
Bob Bubeck Bob Bubeck is offline
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Originally Posted by ps7256 View Post
That is great Bob, I too am finding similar hours for break in, just upgraded power cable and Balanced interconnects.
I have been using previously owned factory certified "mid-grade" Transparent mm2 cables and balanced interconnects to good effect, I believe. Apologize for the kinda tardy response.

Last edited by Bob Bubeck; 03-16-2019 at 05:08 PM.
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  #56  
Old 03-18-2019, 12:42 PM
lucab617 lucab617 is offline
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Just got my C2600. So happy with it! Now i'm trying decide what to get for cables. I'm really unsure on whether to go high end or not on cables. So many conflicting thoughts on whether or not to spend the money or if there is a difference.
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  #57  
Old 06-15-2021, 03:11 AM
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Stahle Stahle is offline
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Default MC462 Owners Club

I mentioned elsewhere on this site that I would post a photo of my MC462 once I had it set up and I figured that the MC462 club thread would be the best place to do so. It's been set up for about four weeks now and it sounds amazing. Due to the weight though I had to place a wood block under the shelf that it sits on for added support.



I only have one issue with my amp and it's purely a cosmetic one. When there is no signal sent to the amp or when it is turned off, the needle of the left meter rests about 2.0 mm below the lowest hash mark found on the meter face and the needle of the right meter rests about 0.5-1.0 mm above its lowest hash mark. Since I've worked with instrumentation in the past, I figured that there had to be a set screw somewhere to adjust the needle resting point so I contacted my dealer who then contacted McIntosh. The people at McIntosh explained that there is a set screw for each meter to adjust this and that the set screw is located just below the meter face basically at the fulcrum of the meter needle. Turning the set screw counter clockwise lowers the needle's resting point and turning it clockwise raises the needle's resting point. Keep in mind that this is not the same set screw that adjusts the meter calibration, it only sets the resting point of the meter's needle. If you need to calibrate the meters, there are potentiometers to do so that are easily accessible by removing the dust cover that is located directly behind the front glass. Once the dust cover is removed, the two meter calibration potentiometers will be accessible and are positioned almost directly behind the power guard lights. There are also potentiometers for adjusting the lighting color found in this vicinity so don't confuse the two (they're all marked).



As an FYI, assuming the MC452 meter calibration thread is correct, the location for the MC462 meter calibration potentiometers is different than that of the MC452 meter calibration potentiometers because it was posted that the MC452 meter calibration potentiometers are located under the amp and not on the top side of the amp behind the power guard lights.



In order to access the meter face and adjust the needle resting point, one must remove the glass assembly (glass and its surrounding frame) which I did this last Friday evening. It wasn't hard, it was just time consuming. I posted below how I did this in case you're interested. Once the glass assembly was removed, I was easily able to adjust the needle resting point of each meter. I then power cycled the amp several times as well as played some music just to be sure that each meter needle would return to the proper resting position. I had to do so about four times before getting needle resting point of each meter just right. They are now zeroed out and look great and have not moved from where I set them.



If you want to know how I removed the glass assembly, read on and if you follow my instructions, it is AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! To remove the glass assembly, one must first remove the 2 front knobs from the face of the unit by pulling them straight off. You then need to remove the dust cover located on the top of the amp right behind the glass, 4 screws hold this cover in place, 2 on the top and 1 on each side. You also need to remove the bottom cover which has 14 screws that hold it in place. Once the dust cover and bottom cover are both removed, you will see that there are 6 screws on the top, 4 screws on the bottom, and 4 screws on each side that all hold the entire glass assembly in place. Unfortunately, 1 of the 4 screws found on each side of the assembly is not accessible or visible and the glass assembly will not come off unless you remove these screws. To access them, there are 8 additional screws that must be removed. These 8 screws are the screws that hold the two steel risers that are mounted to the amplifier's stainless steel frame which attach the whole front glass assembly and meter assembly to the stainless steel frame. I wish I had a photo here. Anyway, 4 of the 8 screws are accessed through the bottom of the amp and the other 4 screws are accessed once the dust cover is removed. By removing these 8 screws, you can slide the whole assembly forward enough to access the 2 final screws that hold the glass assembly in place. You can now remove the the glass assembly. I then reinserted 4 of the 8 screws that attach the riser to the stainless steel frame so that the meters would be held in place while setting the meter needle stop points. Once you are done adjusting the meter needles, do everything in reverse and you're done. Sorry for the lack of photos, but I didn't think about it at the time. I hope this post helps someone else with the same issue that I had.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_4603.jpg (856.8 KB, 103 views)
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McIntosh MC462, C22 IV, and MR7084; Simaudio Moon 300D V2 DAC; Technics SL1200G, Mac Mini Server; Sonus Faber Grand Piano Home; and Wireworld Cables.

Last edited by Stahle; 06-16-2021 at 11:49 PM.
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  #58  
Old 06-16-2021, 11:50 PM
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Stahle Stahle is offline
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Default MC462 Owners Club

Any more MC462 users out there? Things seem to be quiet here lately.
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McIntosh MC462, C22 IV, and MR7084; Simaudio Moon 300D V2 DAC; Technics SL1200G, Mac Mini Server; Sonus Faber Grand Piano Home; and Wireworld Cables.
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  #59  
Old 06-17-2021, 08:27 AM
cmusic cmusic is offline
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Hello everyone
I replaced my MC452 with a MC462(1st brand new Mac) about 3 weeks ago and I am very happy with it. As I posted on the B&W thread, the change was noticeable right out of the box. The bass definition is one of the best improvements. The 803D3's are always connected the 4 ohm tabs. Glad to be a member of the club!!
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  #60  
Old 10-29-2021, 02:21 PM
45shooter 45shooter is offline
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Just picked up the big girl yesterday!!

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