#21
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Track 5 (Mono Brown Noise) is the best tool I have ever used. I dialed the sub in within 10 minutes. The R528 has finally blended in and disappears. I should have done this a long time ago. Best $20 I have ever spent! Turns out I had both the cross over and volume too high. I ended up with the cross over only set three "clicks" up from the minimum and the volume only 6 clicks from minimum. I can strongly recommend trying this to anyone concerned with dialing in their sub system. |
#22
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Setting xover too high is a common mistake for the REL subs. I have mine set to the lowest position. I use a Harmonia Mundi vinyl recording of the Bach Toccata and Fugue in D Minor for organ to get mine dialed in.
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—Dean |
#23
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R-528 vs R-528SE vs StormIII
This thread is of interest to me since I currently own a REL-Storm III and am thinking of getting either the 528 or the 528SE. I am happy with the setup I have now with the Storm and have gotten it dialed in pretty good with my stand mount monitors. My only issue with the Storm is it's age (14yrs). I know it is just a matter of time before it's going to break down so I have been looking ahead for a good replacement. First of all, which REL in the current lineup compares the closest to the Storm III? I am leaning towards the 528 or the 528SE. What are others opinions? How do the older ST model RELs stand up performance wise to the newer models? Also, would I be better served by two 328s say than one 528se? Or would one G2 be significantly better than any of the other alternatives? BTW, this is a 2 channel music only system.
Last edited by randyhat; 03-29-2014 at 12:37 PM. |
#24
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I've also been reading these recent REL threads lately as I've been trying to dial in my T2 to match my KEF LS50's.
I'm not clear on the step intervals on either the crossover or gain dials. The hi/lo range is printed but I can't seem to find in any literature what each step/click represents on either dial. The LS50's measure: Frequency range (–6dB): 47Hz–45kHz. Frequency response: 79Hz–28kHz, ±3dB. Stereophile measurements appear to coincide on the frequency range and they add that the port is tuned at 52Hz.
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Jayson Analog: Garrard 301 (Hammertone) | Woodsong Audio Plinth | Schick | Ortofon SPU 90th| A23 SUT (SPU) Everything Else: Devialet D-Premier | KEF LS50 | Sennheiser HD700 | GEEK Out / Pulse X |
#25
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I originally started looking at some of the new RELs as a replacement/upgrade from my 14 yr old Storm III...and I am still thinking along those lines however, it occurred to me that as long as the Storm is still woking that I might be able to still get a newer REL, maybe the r-328 and run it WITH the Storm rather than instead of it. Anyone have experience running two different models of subs in the same system? BTW this is a two channel system and my main speakers are SP Tech (Aether Audio) Minis.
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#26
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Why not just get another Storm III? You can pick one up cheap. |
#27
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I have 2 REL Stentor III and believe in stereo subs. To me stereo subs just blend better behind each speaker. What works for me is to adjust them on an axis from the speaker to the wall corner. I use the high level off the amps. Make sure you connect the wires correctly as I first had the red and yellow on the positive and was only getting half my bass with my fully balanced amps. Since my amps were fully balanced I had to split the red and yellow wires so each one was on a different terminal of the amp.
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#28
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I read your post and thought you might be the right person for some advice on REL connections I am currently struggling with. I have purchased a pair of G1 to supplement my Rockport Avior speakers in stereo config. I run the burmester 911 mk3 amps in mono. These are fully balanced as well. I needed some advice regarding the connections. Should I be connecting the red to the positive, yellow to the negative and leave the black alone? I will be grateful for some insight. Cheers Sujay |
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