#21
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#22
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Ha! Well, as I like to choose and serve myself (and my better half) a nice single malt, you omit the butler. And as you can listen to one system at a time, you can omit the other dozen rooms as well. Hey wait, I see I'm already in audio nirvana!
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Stereo: Hegel H590, Grimm Audio MU1, Mola Mola Tambaqui, Burmester 948 - V3 & V6 racks, Vivid Audio G2 Giyas, REL Carbon Special (pair), Silent Angel Bonn N8 Ethernet Switch & Forester F1, Wireworld Platinum Eclipse IC and SE SC, Furutech Digiflux AV: Hegel C-53, Marantz AV8802A, Oppo BDP-203EU, Pioneer Kuro 60", Vivid Audio C1 & V1w's, Wireworld Platinum Eclipse, SE & E Second system (veranda): Halgorythme preamp and monoblocks, Burmester 061, Avalon Avatar, Sharkwire & Wireworld cables |
#23
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Agreed Bart. In reality, all you need is ONE that truly moves you. Not just an audio but many things in life. The rest is just noise, distraction and a temporary toy/pacifier for the soul that seeks more sustenance than materialistic possessions.
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#24
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I had a Mac 275 amp. I was frustrated because I couldn't figure out if I wanted to turn it off or leave it on. I had DQ 10's. I bought a Mac 2100 which was a 105 watt per channel SS amp. I was struck by the similarity of the sound. I was totally satisfied by the sound of the 2100.I did not have the ultra expensive cables or cords. Essentially what you could buy at Best Buys of today but the sound was really good. I favor smoothness and sweetness with as much clarity and resolution as possible. Can't abide a harsh mid or treble. I must have bass and plenty of it. I never heard a 20 Hz note I objected to. Best Charles p.s. One must realize that a speaker that has little to no low bass capability needs a sweet mid and treble and may benefit more from a tube amp because they can sound thin. Speakers with low bass capability to 20 Hz will inherently have a sweeter mid and treble because they tend to sound fuller. That has been my experience over the years. Speakers are a matter of taste. Many folks have low bass and bass power a low priority. Tubes cause what bass there is to sound fatter/fuller/deeper and provide the smooth mid and treble. ____________________ Charles Updated System: Wilson McIntosh Audioquest Most recent updates: AQ Diamond USB replaces AQ Coffee; Wilson Audio Specialties Alexx replaced by Wilson Audio Specialties XVX Chronosonic; new subwoofer crossover; new Galaxy Grey Thors Hammer; Wilson Pedestals Amps: McIntosh 1.25KW’s (3) set on floor on custom made cultured marble slabs Preamp and DAC: McIntosh D1100 Sources: McIntosh MCD1100 SACD player, MVP881 BR player, MVP851 DVD player, MR87 tuner, Marantz 510LV Laser Disc player, ASUS laptop USB (JRiver Media Center 23) Speakers: Wilson Audio Specialties XVX Chronosonic Sub-woofer: Wilson Audio Specialties Thor’s Hammer (1) horizontal lie and Wilson Watch Controller (abbr: WC) Cables main system: Audioquest Wel Signature speaker cables and balanced IC (preamp to amps); Wel Signature AES/EBU balanced digital IC for CD playback; Audioquest Diamond optical (1) for tuner, (1) for BR player, and (1) for LD player for total of (3); Diamond USB cable; McIntosh MCT cable for SACD playback; Dragon power cords (5 HC cords and 3 source cords for total of 8); Thunder HC power cord for tuner; cables for DVD player not listed Cables subwoofer system: Audioquest Redwood speaker cable (1); Wolf balanced subwoofer IC from WC to amp; Wind balanced IC from preamp to WC; Hurricane HC (2) and Dragon HC (1) power cords Power conditioners: Audioquest Niagara 7000 (1) and Niagara 5000 (3); (4) dedicated 20-amp lines with no. 10 wire straight out of fuse box Isolation: Wilson Pedestals Cabinet: Double Custom Woodwork & Design (CWD) solid walnut cabinet on large casters; holds all sources and preamp; also, Niagara 7000; 11 feet minimum distance from speakers Acoustic Treatments: Room and Echo Tunes AC: Dedicated to this room only, an ultra-high efficiency and quiet recently installed Ruud split system 3-ton heat pump. Room (mancave): 40’L x 15.5’W A-frame; max ceiling height 8’ min 5’; wall within wall construction built of 2 x 6’s; built over garage with custom hardwood floor with gym seal with over 40 Lowes stiffened wooden I-beams supporting floor; complete isolation from rest of Last edited by Charles; 01-10-2021 at 05:25 AM. |
#25
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There are several basic differences between tubes and transistors which contribute to their sound. 1) tubes generate even harmonics which are more pleasing to the human ear. 2) tubes are on until turned off by bias or signal level 3) transistors generate odd order harmonics which are less pleasing and 4) transistors are off until turned on by bias and/or signal.
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System: ML:5206,5302 Serafino's Nordost Lumin U1 RM15 |
#26
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I was solid-state only for quite a while, too. As a rank neophyte, it always seemed tube equiment was usually more expensive than SS, and it was weird-looking (to me), with low power compared to some SS gear. Times have changed, certainly.
The only reason I have a tube preamp now (Mac C2300) is the heavy influence of AA; the high praise here led me to try one. I've since come to the conclusion that a tube preamp with a solid state amp is a great combo, and I would never go the other way, as I'm still leery due to horror stories I've heard regarding tube failure, especially with a power amp. In my tube explorations I have found that the sound depends greatly on which tubes you use. Not every tube I put into my 2300 was "smooth, liquid and warm" to my ears. I seem to have settled on Telefunken Black Diamonds, made by JJ, and they have a great sound. But, if I want to tame bright recordings I'd use a warmer tube (JJ Hi-Performance Gold Pins, which I have in house). Tubes are versatile that way, and it's less expensive than buying new equipment.
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SOTA, Grado, SME, Van den Hul, Gingko turntable setup; Pioneer Elite LD, BDP; Sony OLED TV; Magnum Dynalab tuner, antenna; MIT S-video cable; Pangea HDMI cables; DVDO video processor; McIntosh SACD, preamp, power amps; Telefunken Black Diamond preamp tubes; Kimber IC; Transparent IC, PC, SC; Mirage speakers; PS Audio, Shunyata PC; Audio Additives RCA caps; Furman power conditioning; Sanus: racks |
#27
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I do not understand your concern. From your signature--you've dropped tens of thousands on your system. If you decided a tube power amp sounded better, would you really care about a few hundred dollars every few years?
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Clearaudio Ovation with Tracer Dynavector KARAT 17DX Naim Uniti Core Schiit Yggdrasil McIntosh C22/MC275 Wilson TuneTots B&W DB3D Nordost QKore/QBase/Frey 2 Transparent Super IsoAcoustics GAIA II Stax SR-009S with SRM-700T |
#28
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Being near retirement (I hope), the additional money for tube replacement could make a difference later on, and if I downsize in preparation for said retirement it would be for inexpensive solid-state. But I think the tube/SS combo is a really good idea.
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SOTA, Grado, SME, Van den Hul, Gingko turntable setup; Pioneer Elite LD, BDP; Sony OLED TV; Magnum Dynalab tuner, antenna; MIT S-video cable; Pangea HDMI cables; DVDO video processor; McIntosh SACD, preamp, power amps; Telefunken Black Diamond preamp tubes; Kimber IC; Transparent IC, PC, SC; Mirage speakers; PS Audio, Shunyata PC; Audio Additives RCA caps; Furman power conditioning; Sanus: racks |
#29
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Catastrophic failure would be something that caused $$thousands in damage. If there is damage, usually a couple of resistors or something similar. Hardly catastrophic. As PeterMusic stated, go for the best sound and don't care about the tube/solid-state thing. When you downsize there are any number of terrific tube integrated amps as well as solid-state models.
The reason you rarely hear of any damage with a tube preamp tube going bad is they run at much lower voltage & current than does a power amp output tube.
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Glenn... Canton Reference 9 Clearaudio SM Pro Focal Bathys JLA 10" Dominion Kuzma Stabi S w/MC & MM Magnepan 1,7i McIntosh MA8950 & MR88 Oppo 203 Roon Nucleus Rose Hifi RS150B Shunyata Gemini-4 Sony ST-A6B, TA-F6B, ST-J75 & PS-X75 Sorane SA1.2 & TA-1L Stillpoints LP1v2 WW Pt, Au & Ag |
#30
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George Main: Aurender W20SE music streamer, ARC REF 9SE DAC / CD, Linn LP 12, Koetsu Rosewood SignCartrige, ARC REF 3 Phono Stage, ARC REF 6SE Preamp, ARC 160s amp, Sonus Faber Amati Traditional Speakers,Transparent Ultra IC & SC Library:Aurender N100, Ayre QB9 2020 DAC, Woo WA5-LE amp upgraded tubes, Focal Utopia HP, Sennheiser 800s HP, LCD HP. Last edited by George Prentice; 02-02-2021 at 06:41 PM. |
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