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Old 04-05-2017, 06:59 AM
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Default TAD R1s and CR1s: Jumper to bottom or top???

I've had extremely good results attaching my speaker cables to the top-end binding posts of my R1s and "jumpering down" to the bottom-end/bass binding posts. Admittedly, this was how I always 'found it worked best' with my choices of cables and custom jumpers with various speakers; I've not tried the other option.

Any R1 and CR1 owners out there that have found one way or the other work best, or assuming after-market jumpers equal/equivalent/matching whatever speaker cable is used, does either jumpering up or down give the same result?

Note: I'm looking for what attributes are better (if any) above and beyond simply saying that one of the other is 'better'.

Thank you!
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Old 04-05-2017, 09:58 AM
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Just to throw you a curve, I'd suggest you consider the diagonal connection scheme as recommended by Nordost as well as some other cable companies. It's explained in their bi-wiring jumper connection guide, and is found by many to provide the best sonic performance. While any of the connection schemes appear at first glance to be equivalent from an electrical perspective, there are differences in the symmetry of the signal path between them. Nordost finds that it "often becomes the new default set up, offering greater air, transparency, dimensionality and subtlety." If you try it please let us know your thoughts, since your system would definitely be up to revealing these differences. Hope this helps!
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audio bill View Post
Just to throw you a curve, I'd suggest you consider the diagonal connection scheme as recommended by Nordost as well as some other cable companies. It's explained in their bi-wiring jumper connection guide, and is found by many to provide the best sonic performance. While any of the connection schemes appear at first glance to be equivalent from an electrical perspective, there are differences in the symmetry of the signal path between them. Nordost finds that it "often becomes the new default set up, offering greater air, transparency, dimensionality and subtlety." If you try it please let us know your thoughts, since your system would definitely be up to revealing these differences. Hope this helps!
That's definitely a curve ! Interesting thing to note is that Nordost has their take on this as does Audioquest and they are complete opposites of each other! Thanks...I may well give it a try!
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:34 AM
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Default TAD R1s and CR1s: Jumper to bottom or top???

Bill, just to be sure I understand what I read in the link, the optimum set up is black to black and red to red on the jumpers, but one red to red on tweeter and one black to black on the woofer for the main speaker cable?
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Old 04-05-2017, 11:04 AM
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Sounds like you've got it right. Be sure to only connect the same polarity binding posts with each jumper (red to red, black to black)! Then you connect your speaker cables still matching proper polarities (red to red, black to black) but one to the upper and one to the lower binding post. You are correct that AQ also recommends the diagonal connections but with the reverse diagonal connection of the speaker wires. Don't connect any wires across polarities, stick with matching the color connections for all wires and you'll be fine. Of course do this at your own risk, all standard disclaimers apply! It's a bit more complicated in Nordost's explanation since their jumpers are directional, so they also indicate the proper direction for their connection.

Last edited by audio bill; 04-05-2017 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 04-27-2017, 02:56 PM
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I was adviced by a R1 friend owner that it sounds better connecting it from top to bottom.
On my CR1's, maybe because it is less sensitive, sounds better from bottom to top.
Just my experience.
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Old 04-27-2017, 09:17 PM
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Another curve - after extensive testing, my very best result was two pairs of speaker cables. Of course, that doubles the cost, but it gave added body and oomph to the bass as to sufficiently remove any thought of a sub woofer (I have the CR-1s) and tightened up the highs without making them brittle. It was like a new set of speakers.

I had tried multiple jumpers and jumper configurations and this was the one that worked for me.

All standard and non-standard disclaimers apply. YMMV.
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  #8  
Old 04-27-2017, 09:25 PM
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Absolutely correct that what's best varies system to system. You also should realize that by using two sets of speaker cables (assuming they're identical) you're effectively doubling the conductor area which can also impact the sound. Different speakers vary as to whether they work best with doubled up cables or various jumper configurations, mostly due to impedance differences and crossover complexity of their designs.
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Old 04-27-2017, 09:30 PM
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And then there is the whole idea of bi-amp to bring the sound to a new level.
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Old 04-27-2017, 09:39 PM
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Four amps!! My wife will be delighted!
__________________
Main Rig:

Amplification
> Accuphase A200 (2) / C3800 /
> LampiZator MC2 / Silver
Sources
> LampiZator Pacific DAC
> Luxman D-08u
> LampiZator SuperKomputer (via Roon/NAS)
> Magnum-Dynalab > MD-108T SE / MD-205
> J. Sikora Standard Max > Sikora V12 Arm > Lyra / Kleos // Kuzma 4Point Eleven Arm > ClearAudio / Concerto V. 2
Speakers/Cables > TAD R-1 MKII > Elrod Master Statement (shotgun run) // REL 212 SEs (2x)
Power > Nordost QBase8 Mk II (2), QX4, QKore 1, 3 and 6, QV2, QK1 > AddPOWR EAU2 (2)
Foundation > Rix Rax > Hoodoo / Amp Stands > Stillpoints applied liberally > Symposium Super Plus Platforms and EVPs under Subs > SortKones
IC/PC > Power // Elrod Master Statement Diamond (3) // Final Touch Audio > ICs // CH Acoustic X10 > Digital // AQ Diamond
Other > Audio Desk Systeme Vinyl Cleaner Pro
Portables and Cans:

IEMs > Westone W50, Bose QC20
Sources > Onkyo DP-X1
IC/SC/PC > Sennheiser Balanced / AQ Yukon XLRs / Shunyata Venom 3 (2) / Black Dragon Balanced


Daughter's Room:

KEF LS50 Wireless
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