#11
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This was a great read! The Velodyne digital sub system is really useful.......WOW!!! (I have not seen it before) Bet your system sounds great now.
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Audio Room: Sonus Faber Amati Faturas / JL Audio 13.5” Fanthom In Wall Subs / McIntosh C52 / McIntosh MCD 1100 / McIntosh MEN 220 / McIntosh MC 601’s / McIntosh MPC 1500 / McIntosh MT 5 / McIntosh MC 275’s / Luxman AS-55 Amp Selector / Silenzo (This thing is Amazing) / Gold Lion Tubes from Vintage Tube All items in green were bought thru the AA marketplace and blue from a current AA retailer |
#12
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I thought the same until I added a G1 to my system. If the sub is integrated properly you will not look back........
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Audio Room: Sonus Faber Amati Faturas / JL Audio 13.5” Fanthom In Wall Subs / McIntosh C52 / McIntosh MCD 1100 / McIntosh MEN 220 / McIntosh MC 601’s / McIntosh MPC 1500 / McIntosh MT 5 / McIntosh MC 275’s / Luxman AS-55 Amp Selector / Silenzo (This thing is Amazing) / Gold Lion Tubes from Vintage Tube All items in green were bought thru the AA marketplace and blue from a current AA retailer |
#13
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Josh, the Velodyne SMS-1 is a fabulous tool for HT and for use as a diagnostic tool, but it is not up to the job as an active crossover in a two channel system (I tried it). However, to me, the ability to generate, read, and display frequency sweeps in real time is alone enough to make it worth buying. If you have ever plotted frequency responses by hand, you know what I mean. Ironically, the main thing it taught me was that if you locate a sub correctly, level match its volume to the rest of the system and adjust relative phase correctly, you probably do not need any EQ.
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#14
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Audio Room: Sonus Faber Amati Faturas / JL Audio 13.5” Fanthom In Wall Subs / McIntosh C52 / McIntosh MCD 1100 / McIntosh MEN 220 / McIntosh MC 601’s / McIntosh MPC 1500 / McIntosh MT 5 / McIntosh MC 275’s / Luxman AS-55 Amp Selector / Silenzo (This thing is Amazing) / Gold Lion Tubes from Vintage Tube All items in green were bought thru the AA marketplace and blue from a current AA retailer |
#15
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Josh, it is crazy easy for HT. If you have a "W" pattern at the crossover point you have a relative phase problem. Adjust the relative phase (either in SMS-1 or at sub, not both) until you have a flat response at the crossover point and you are done. Since it is a real time, continuous sweep you can do it in under a minute.
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#16
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Randy.......Congratulations on a successful installation. I am glad your final judgment for gain was trusting your ears and not the graph. You may find yourself tweaking the gain one way or the other for the next few days as you listen to assorted recordings, but you will eventually find that one setting that works the best for the majority of your source content. Looking at your Bryston 10B Sub active crossover make me miss mine. It is a fine crossover. Happy listening.
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Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A Last edited by jdandy; 10-28-2012 at 09:07 PM. |
#17
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I like a man who uses an active crossover. That's the best way to integrate a sub. You picked a good one.
I almost agree with Dan regarding tweaking. You may find yourself tweaking the gain and crossover points for a few weeks before you leave the settings alone. If you get it in a few days, you'll be very lucky! It takes a while for your ears to accommodate to the changes in your system. Last edited by GaryProtein; 10-29-2012 at 12:33 AM. |
#18
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I guess that's why I like the Thiel SmartSubs. It's a lot easier to integrate into an existing setup.
The subs have two adjustments: distance from two nearest walls. This compensates for boundary interactions. The S1 integrator then adjusts for the main speakers and power amp. You just dial in the specs of the speaker (sensitivity/ported/sealed/-3dB low frequency cut off) and the power amp (gain). The crossover in the main speakers are untouched and they run unadulterated. The subs just fill in what the main speakers can't reproduce. I've moved the speakers/sub a few times and to 2 different rooms and never have to deal with the Goldilocks (too much, too little) problem everytime |
#19
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#20
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But I understand the Velodyne SMS can work in augment mode (in parallel and just filling in the blanks so to speak) |
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