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Subwoofers 80hz and Down under!

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  #31  
Old 12-14-2018, 06:57 PM
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Vintage Pete Vintage Pete is offline
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All four of my systems have a sub, or subs. 'nuff said!!
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Main System: VPI Prime Signature TT in Rosewood, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Stillpoints LP1 V2, McIntosh: MP100, MR78, MCD1000 Transport on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, MDA1000 D/A Converter on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, MS750 Music Server, C40, MC501's (3), Soundcraftsmen: DC2215 Eq/AS1000 Real time analyzer, DBX 3BX II, Carver C9, Nakamichi Dragon, Crown SX724, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), Sony XBR55X900E 4K TV, JBL L220A's, JBL B460, Sumo Delilah active crossover, WireWorld Silver Eclipse audio interconnects, WireWorld Starlight and Silver Starlight Coaxial Digital interconnects, Wireworld SuperNova 7 Toslink digital interconnect, WireWorld Aurora 7 and Silver Electra Power cords, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 8 speaker cables, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-Ray Player, Bryson BUC-1 USB Converter, Wireworld Gold Starlight XLR Digital interconnect, PS Audio Direct Stream Power Plant 12 on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, PS Audio Dectect, FuruTech Flux-50 NCF Inline Power Filter, Add-Powr Wizard EM Field AC Line conditioner; Stillpoint Ultra SS's under (3) McIntosh MC501 Amplifiers

Florida Room/Art Studio System: Harmon Kardon T60 TT/Ortofon 2M Black, McIntosh: MR77, C32, MC2205; Crown Power Line Four, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 Digital to Analog converter, Soundcraftsmen AE2000 Eq, JBL 4313B's, JBL 2241-based Sub, JBL BX63A Active Crossover, Oppo BDP-105D Blu-Ray Player, Samsung 5500 Series 32" Smart TV, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna

Master Bedroom System: McIntosh: MX120 Theater processor, MC206 6-channel amplifier; MR74 AM/FM Tuner, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, JVC HM-DH40000U D-Theater Digital VHS, Phase Technology PC80 Towers (now used as stands), (2) JBL 4401's, (1) JBL Studio 6IW speaker, (2) JBL Studio 6IC speakers, Sony XBR-49X900E UHD TV, Panamax 1000 Line Conditioner, (2) JL Audio E110 Subwoofers, Wireworld Solstice speaker cables, Wireworld Aurora Power cords, Wireworld Equinox and Solstice speaker cables and various other flavors of Wireworld and Audioquest cabling

Office System: Marantz 150 Tuner, Crown DL 2, Crown EQ 2, Crown SA 2, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), McIntosh MCD7009 (as transport), DBX 3BX Series II, Oppo BDP-103 Blu-ray player, JBL 4401's, JL Audio E112 Subwoofer, Samsung 5500 series 32" Smart TV, Wire World Oasis audio interconnects, Wire World Solstice speaker cables, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 DSDse Digital to Analog converter, Wireworld Starlight Coaxial Digital Interconnect, Sennheiser HD800 Headphones, Sennheiser HDVA600 Headphone amp, Wireworld Silver Eclipse Balanced Interconnects, Wireworld Platinum Starlight USB Cable, Add-Powr EAU-2 AC Harmonic resonator

High Resolution Source: HP Omen 17" Gaming Laptop
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  #32  
Old 12-14-2018, 07:30 PM
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edkoz edkoz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formerly YB-2 View Post
Who's Steve Guttenberg?
Didn't he invent the printing press?
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  #33  
Old 12-15-2018, 02:32 PM
Charles Charles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krustycat View Post
I also believe when using a cross over, that sending the low frequencies exclusively to a subwoofer, allows to free the speakers from a lot of pressure allowing it to sound better on the other frequencies.
I think you are correct but there are exceptions. Large Wilsons like the Alexx or XLF are the exception. Wilson strongly recommends that these speakers be run full range (no HP) so that the Watch Controller does not affect in any way the signal going to the Alexx or XLF. I have tried it both ways and can say conclusively that LP only(no HP) works best. The crossover coloration is noticeable with the HP engaged and Wilson specifically emphasizes the significant effort they put into the HP filters. That's why big Wilsons do not have exaggerated 30-50 Hz bass. It would make integration with a Thor or Subsonic impossible without a HP crossover. Both of these speakers possess both front and rear ports so that bass can be further reduced to allow the sub to perfectly integrate with the speaker. Using the front port decreases bass output in most rooms. However for me I find that the rear port works best and with the Alexx pulled out significantly from the rear wall.
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  #34  
Old 01-06-2019, 06:44 PM
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FreddieFerric FreddieFerric is offline
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Back when I had my Maggie 1.7's I ran two SVS subs. They blended so seamlessly that whenever friends and audio club members came over they couldn't believe I had two subs in action.

The thing about subs is that you have to take the time to dial them in and keep their output at a level where they don't say "Hey, look at me!"

Once the Maggies left for a new home, and the big Canton's arrived, the subs are not being used. In my smallish room they're just not needed as the Canton's produce a prodigious amount of deep bass.
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  #35  
Old 03-12-2019, 12:49 PM
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GW1800 GW1800 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdandy View Post
Steve Guttenberg - Are subwoofers bad for music?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNwJOXwMcw8
You know I get what he is saying for a media room I think we all can agree with the need for subs. He goes on to point out that for music listening he is not a big fan of subs. There can be all kinds of issues with integrating subs with your main speakers and particularly if you are overlapping them with your main speakers. Not sure I agree that a 5' cone will produce enough bass as air must be moved but in my opinion its not.

My most recent experience was with Martin Logan Summit X's and Descent i subs. I played around and played around and although I liked the added bottom end just was not happy with the results. Eventually moved on to the CLX and the newer 212 subs.

First off with the CLX there is no overlapping with the bass which I think is significant on its own. Add to that the custom cross over that ML supplies and then the PBK kit for the sub all that makes a world of difference. I can't say enough how the PBK kit has improved the bass. When you really think of it without some type of correction to your room you are not going to have stellar results. The other couple of things that help is go with two subs instead of one that does make a difference and also get the phase set correctly. Setting the correct phase has always been a mystery to me but once I found a method that made sense to me and applied it boy does it work. Also good room treatments are a must for good bass. I was surprised at the rear wall how much that made a difference.

Lastly is the volume to set the subs at. That I agree is a very time consuming task and as this progressed I moved the knob like a micrometer.
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  #36  
Old 03-12-2019, 03:12 PM
junkfroggy junkfroggy is offline
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I will always prefer no sub for music, hence why I try to find a speaker that can reproduce a large frequency range.
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  #37  
Old 03-13-2019, 09:04 AM
Mikado463 Mikado463 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkfroggy View Post
I will always prefer no sub for music, hence why I try to find a speaker that can reproduce a large frequency range.
you have obviously never listened to a proper 2.1 set up , let alone a superb 2.2 set up...........
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  #38  
Old 03-13-2019, 09:57 AM
BuffaloBill BuffaloBill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkfroggy View Post
I will always prefer no sub for music, hence why I try to find a speaker that can reproduce a large frequency range.
Agree, if your speaker is designed right you shouldn't need a sub for music. But if you decide to go in that direction anyway then using an electronic crossover and a sub from the same manufacturer as the speaker can ensure proper phase between both the speaker and the sub and avoid potential bass frequency cancellation.
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  #39  
Old 03-13-2019, 10:58 AM
Mikado463 Mikado463 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuffaloBill View Post
Agree, if your speaker is designed right you shouldn't need a sub for music. But if you decide to go in that direction anyway then using an electronic crossover and a sub from the same manufacturer as the speaker can ensure proper phase between both the speaker and the sub and avoid potential bass frequency cancellation.
Bill, again, here is where we disagree.......... while a given 'full range' speaker may very well have the ability to produce into the 'sub' range it in no way guarantees to do so correctly given all the different room configuration possibilities. This is where a sub, or preferably two, properly placed will produce the 'best' lower octave(s)
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  #40  
Old 03-16-2019, 08:05 PM
PeterMusic PeterMusic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuffaloBill View Post
Agree, if your speaker is designed right you shouldn't need a sub for music.
The word "need" in these discussions always makes me laugh (at myself as well as the writer). We shouldn't "need" hi-fis that costs tens of thousands of dollars. But we do, and in that context, a well-integrated sub is a great value.
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