#21
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Mike.......The meters on the C2300 and every other McIntosh component with a meter are set using a specific test tone and a specific level. Each meter is set individually. I believe you can safely assume your meters are accurate.
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Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#22
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Quote:
The azimuth test is not a crosstalk test. The best way to describe azimuth is the angle in which the stylus sits in the groove (i.e. it does not lean to the left or right side of the groove) and thus the channels are in balance. The test you have done will show crosstalk but its not azimuth. On the VPI since the arm is a uni-pivot design you set the azimuth by turning the tonearm weight to the left or right. Moving the weight backward/forward will effect the tracking weight. It gets tricky changing one without changing the other. |
#23
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Quote:
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#24
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Interesting. Here's what it says on the Test LP:
Azimuth Adjustment(Or at link: Analogue Productions) I read this as saying that unequal cross-talk is a possible indicator of non-perpendicular azimuth. I think everyone is saying just about the same thing, regardless of terminology. Of course there are other influences on cross-talk at the speakers as well, not at all attributable to the TT. So you just have take each measurement as an indicator, not the absolute truth. That's a good thing about the Fozgometer I guess - it takes out all other parts of the system downstream of the TT. These setting are definitely fussy on the VPI tonearm, but doable with some patience.
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C2700, Bryston SP3, MC2301's, MC205, Sonus Faber Amati Futura's mains, SF center, Klipsch Sur/Back, JL F113, VPI Classic III, MR87, Pioneer Kuro plasma monitor, Oppo BDP-105, Sonos Port with W4S mod, Bryston BIT20.[/SIZE][/COLOR] |
#25
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Update: First of all I would like to thanks edkoz for loaning me his Fozgometer, really super awesome of him. So I ordered one of the test LP that Fozgo. recommend and the instruction was very simple as you only use track #2 and track #3 on side one to check and/or adjust the azimuth. Hooked up my TT cable to the Fozgometer, placed the test LP on the platter and lowered my tonearm to play track #2. (Left chanel only) Left LED on and the meter needle moved to about midway of the meter (#20) then track #2 ended LED off then meter needle back to (0). Now, track #3 (Right chanel only) start playing, right LED on and meter needle moved to midway which is exactly the same where track #2 were, I mean exactly as if the needle didn't move. No adjustment needed for me to do. Now, I don't know if I just got lucky or the little bubble level I've used (see post #1) really works. Anyway I just thought I share this. Thanks Dan and others for recommending the Fozgometer. I think there's really no way of knowing for sure if your azimuth is adjusted accurately without the Fozgometer.
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McIntosh C2300 preamp, MC601 monoblocks (x2), Vandersteen 2CE Signature II Speakers, Marantz AV8802a preamp processor, Marantz MA500 monoblocks amps, Small Audio Manufacture (SAM) Turntable, Polk Audio Center, Rear Left and Rear Right speakers, SVS Front High Left and Front High Right speakers, Chrysalis Bass Matrix-12 Sub woofer. Last edited by miketuason; 04-08-2014 at 07:26 AM. |
#26
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Mike.......Very good news and peace of mind that it is correct.
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Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#27
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Ed was gracious to lend me his Fozgometer also. When I tested the azimuth with the Fozgometer, I also found that I had set it dead on. It was great to confirm this though. I had only used the bar supplied by VPI to set the azimuth so my needle and cartridge must have been built carefully.
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Paul Harbeth 40.3 XD, Sound Anchor stands w/ Stillpoints, Luxman M900 & C900, Aurender N20, Jay's Audio CDT3 - MK3 CD player, Mola Mola Tambaqui DAC, Shunyata Everest, Altaira |
#28
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Thank you Ed!
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McIntosh C2300 preamp, MC601 monoblocks (x2), Vandersteen 2CE Signature II Speakers, Marantz AV8802a preamp processor, Marantz MA500 monoblocks amps, Small Audio Manufacture (SAM) Turntable, Polk Audio Center, Rear Left and Rear Right speakers, SVS Front High Left and Front High Right speakers, Chrysalis Bass Matrix-12 Sub woofer. |
#29
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I use a small bubble level on top of the arm. Centered on the front of the head shell.
This give the starting azimuth. Then I listen and make very small adjustments with the azimuth ring, by ear for best sound. Some VPI arms with dropped counterweight have a fixed azimuth ring. Works fine for me. Could never get good results with the fuzegometer.. YMMV! |
#30
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I've been using the bubble level for years on my VPI tables, it works extremely well. One additional step I do is to weight the level and back off the tracking force so the pressure (tracking force) is consistent.
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