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#1
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Looking to replace an out-of-date RF Universal remote system (URS MSC-400 base). My A/V set-up includes HT (MX 121 processor) with MVP891 or Oppo 205, cable, Panasonic Kuro TV, Apple TV and 2-channel (C2600 pass-through for HT) with Esoteric N-05 and G-02 (understand that it may not be possible to program it for Esoteric). Curious if anyone has a good replacement RF universal remote system solution they would recommend.
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MC 1.2kW, C1100, Esoteric D-02X & G-01X, Aurender W20 SE MX122, MC8207, MVP901 Paradigm Persona 7F, C5v3, ADP3, JL Audio F113v2 and CR-1, Shunyata Everest and Denali 6000/Sv2 Shunyata and WW PCs, SCs and ICs. |
#2
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I use Logitech Harmony.
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#3
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Amps: Dan D'Agostino Progression Monos on 20A dedicated breakers. Preamp: Dan D'Agostino Progression Preamp. Digital Source: dCS Paganini 4 stack (Transport/DAC/Clock/Upsampler). Analogue Preamp: VAC Renaissance SE Phono stage with XLR Output Option & with Nordost Tyr 2 P/C and Tyr 2 XLR's. Analogue Sources: SME 20/2 w/SME V arm & Nordost Valhalla TA cable, Palo Santos Presentation Cartridge & Akai GX-400D Reel-to-Reel w/relapped heads by JRF Magnetic Sciences. Akai RC-17 cabled remote. Vibration Control: TT on HRS M3X 1921 shelf, Stillpoint Ultra SS under dCS Transport, Stillpoint Ultra-Mini's under dCS 3 Stack. HRS NA100's under Ansuz D8 Power Distribution Bar. Speakers: Wilson Audio Alexia in Argento Silver/Black grills. Power Cables: 3 each 2.5M Nordost Odin Supreme Reference on amps & preamp. Nordost Valhalla V1 on dCS Transport. Power Distribution Bar: Ansuz Mainz Diamond 8(D8) fed by Ansuz Diamond Power Cable. Power Outlets:Furutech GTX-D NCF (R) duplex outlet, GTX Wall Plate & Duplex Cover (x2). Speaker Cables: 3M Nordost Odin Supreme Reference with 4 Nordost Sort Lifts. Signal Cables: Nordost Tyr 2 XLR's 2M on dCS Paganini and Mono amps. Nordost Valhalla 2's 110 ohm Digital AES/EBU on dCS internal connections and Crystal Cable Firewire 1394 cables on dCS. Clock Cables: 3 each 75 ohm 1.25M Nordost Valhalla BNC/BNC Digital Headphones: Selling - 6M Cardas Clear HP cables. Vintage Koss Pro IV AA. RCM: Audio Desk PRO Tube Test Gear: Mint late '60's/calibrated Heathkit TT-1A & current SOTA MaxiMatcher Power and Preamp tube test sets. |
#4
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I also use a Logitech Harmony remote. For $50 you can't go wrong.
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Paul Harbeth Super HL5+XD, Sound Anchor stands w/ Stillpoints, Hegel 590, Aurender N200, Jay's Audio CDT2 - MK3 CD player, Jay's Audio DAC2 - MK3, Shunyata Denali 6000/s V2 |
#5
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I like the Harmony 650, too. But it's an IR remote, not RF.
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#6
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Looks like for RF you need the Harmony Ultimate at about $185 if you can't get IR to work.
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Paul Harbeth Super HL5+XD, Sound Anchor stands w/ Stillpoints, Hegel 590, Aurender N200, Jay's Audio CDT2 - MK3 CD player, Jay's Audio DAC2 - MK3, Shunyata Denali 6000/s V2 |
#7
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I'm interested in hearing other responses. I wanted RF because IR is impossible to aim at my components from where I sit in the room.
I have the MX1200 and MSC400 base because I wanted one remote. I needed a serviceman to program it for me since I'm "remotely impaired" (that was a bad pun). These are not easy to program unless you are a computer guru. After programming, it has to be tested on your system in person. You can't send it away with a list of your components and expect it to work properly when it is shipped back. If you get this type of system unless you have many remotes you wish to consolidate and have a great number of functions you need on it and are really good at programming these things, which I am not, it will be overkill. If you change any components, you will need it re-programmed. Last edited by GaryProtein; 01-31-2018 at 01:49 PM. |
#8
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The Logitech is one of the easiest to use and easiest to program. But you definitely have to have at some computer knowledge. Maybe a friend can help you set it up. Once it is set up properly, it should just work. Maybe someone else can chime in with other options. |
#9
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I’ve been using Logitech Harmony remotes for years. I currently use the Harmony Ultimate in my theater setup and the Harmony Companion in the bedroom. I find them easy to program and adjust with either a computer or an iPad, and not much in the way of special skills required. The handheld is comfortable and easy to use, and the iPhone/iPad app can control the system as well. The system actually works over Wi-Fi, not RF, and is pretty consistent.
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Tony "Have you seen the stars tonight?" ________________________________ Main system: Linn Klimax KDSM/2 w/Organik; D’Agostino Momentum S250 & HD pre; Rega P10 w/Koetsu Rosewood Platinum Signature; Boulder 1108; Sonus faber Il Cremonese; Shunyata Everest, Alpha v2 & Sigma PC, Alpha v2 IC & SC; UpTone EtherRegen; Quadraspire Sunoko-Vent T, ISOAcoustics Orea & HRS Damping 2nd system: PrimaLuna EVO 300, Sonus faber Minima Amator II, REL T-5, refurbished AR XA w/Nagaoka MP-200 & VPI cabling, Naim NDX 2, Shunyata PS8 w/Defender & Viper, Nordost Blue Heaven PC & IC, Shunyata Venom sc, Symposium Svelte Shelves Workshop: Vintage Yamaha CA-1010 & CT-1010, PSB Imagine Mini, Auralic Aries Mini, Schiit BiFrost, AZ & WW cables Digital Streaming source: SonicTransporter i7 w/Roon, Synology DS420+, English Electric 8switch Personal audio: Woo WA22, WA7 & WA8; Linn Klimax DSM Renew, Sonore MicroRendu & UltraRendu; Shure SE535, Shure SH1540, Westone ES50 Custom, Sennheiser HD820, MrSpeakers Aeon Flow C, Noble Audio Zephyr Prestige, Dan Clark Stealth; Various Moon Audio dragons Video: Sony XBR65X850C; Apple TV-4; Vienna Schönberg L/R, Webern center & surrounds; REL T1, T2, & T3; Arcam AVR850; Cambridge Audio 752BD; MIT-EXP SC |
#10
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Thank you everyone for sharing your thoughts.
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MC 1.2kW, C1100, Esoteric D-02X & G-01X, Aurender W20 SE MX122, MC8207, MVP901 Paradigm Persona 7F, C5v3, ADP3, JL Audio F113v2 and CR-1, Shunyata Everest and Denali 6000/Sv2 Shunyata and WW PCs, SCs and ICs. |
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