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#1
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Need a CR-1?
I am looking at potentially purchasing a single Fathom f112v2 and am curious about integrating it into my system. I have an extra set of outputs out of any Cary SLP-05 and was going to simply connect it that way, but is a CR-1 necessary?
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#2
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Need a CR-1?
Simple answer is “No”. A crossover is not needed and many here do not use them in top, top line systems. Generally, when they do not, they are setting their crossovers below 50Hz even below 40Hz such that the sub only enters the picture at the lowest frequencies. They are also lucky to not have to deal with bass issues in their well sorted out rooms.
In cases such as mine where my main speakers develop a big ‘suck-out’ around 90Hz. No amount of available movement of their positions or of my listening position was able to eliminate it. My solution was to buy a CR-1 and cross my JL Audio Fathom F113v2 at 95 Hz for high and low pass. Locate the Fathom using REW’s room simulator, fine tune its location with my ears and then adjust the phase of my Fathom, Run DARO and smile like crazy. I achieved flat bass from 18 Hz to 300Hz, removed the low end load on my Amplifiers and created the best staging and frequency integration I have ever had.
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Main Equipment: Kharma Elegance dB11-S, JL Audio F113v2 X 2, Block Audio Line & Mono SE Amplification, Bricasti M21 DAC, Antipodes Kala K-50 Server, Clearaudio Performance SE. Satisfy tonearm & Maestro Wood MM cartridge. Power: Shunyata Everest 8000, Sigma XC v2, Sigma NR v2, Block Audio PCs, Defender, ADDPowr Wizard Grounding: Shunyata Altaira CGS - 4 X Alpha CGS cables, Network : Supra Cat 8+, Twin (Nenon) Modified Buffalo GS2016 Switches, Keces P3 LPSU, Cables: Wireworld Platinum 8 USB, Wireworld Platinum 8 Speaker cables, 6M & 1M Tubulus Concentus ICs, Other:Two PSI Audio AVAA C20, Multiple GIK products, Stillpoint Apertures, Stillpoint Minis and Ultra SS, Three 20 Amp lines, Furutech GTX - Gold outlets, Adona Rack Last edited by crwilli; 05-09-2019 at 05:14 PM. |
#3
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Quote:
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Two Channel: McIntosh C2300 preamp, MC601 amps x2, MR88 tuner, MEN220; Esoteric K-03X; Aurender N100C 4TB; B&W 802D2 Diamonds, JL Audio F113V2 x 2 on Sound Anchor Sub Stands; VPI Classic Signature Piano Black, Ortofon Cadenza Black, VPI SDS, periphery ring, StillPoints center weight, Gingko Audio ClaraVu Dust Cover CT, KAB SpeedStrobe, Dr. Feickert Analogue Protractor; Sonos with W4S digital modification to W4S Remedy to Esoteric; W4S PS1 Linear Power unit for the 2x Remedy and Recovery w/ W4S PS1 Power Cord; Torus RM20; Wireworld Silver Series 7 Electra/Starlight/Eclipse cables and WW Platinum Power Cord for Amps and Platinum USB for Aurender; KLAUDIO RCM; Steve Blinn Designs extra wide three shelf rack; GIK Acoustics panels and bass traps, StillPoints Ultra Minis under all gear and Stillpoint Ultra SS under amps and speakers. Home Theater 7.2: McIntosh MX150, MC452, MC207; B&W 803D2 Diamonds, HTM2 center, CWM7.3 surrounds; JLAudio F112 x2 subs; Panasonic TC-P65ZT60 65" Studio Master Plasma; Oppo 205; Crown FM Two Tuner; Sonos with W4S Remedy; Apple TV; Furman Elite 20 amp PFi x2; WW and AQ Cables/Cords; Salamander Synergy Four Bay Cabinet Office 2ch with McIntosh vintage refurbished gear: McIntosh MC275V6 x2 tube amps; Klipsch Cornwall I vintage speakers (1982); AQ Dragonfly Red DAC/Jitterbug/cables; PS Audio Dectet Power Center; Mcintosh C28, MC2105, MR78 (with mod), MQ101, each with original walnut cabinet and panloc (1976), MCD7008 (1996), ML1C speakers (1976); Bang & Olufsen Beogram 4002 turntable (1976) with new SoundSmith SMMC20CL cartridge (2015); Salamander double rack |
#4
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Mike - If you are just trying to add a bit of low end extension, then you can run your mains full bandwidth and just add in the sub to take care of the very lowest ranges. T
I would try it first without a crossover and if you can dial it in you're good. If you feel the need to remove the bass from your mains you can add a crossover at a later date.
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v |
#5
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Thank you all very much for your input. I really appreciate it. I am now trying to decide between the f112v2 or the f113v2. I do want it to blend seamlessly once I am finished. I used to have a REL B1 sub with my Vienna Acoustic Mahler speakers and enjoyed it very much. My newer system in in a larger room that is on the second level and opens up via a balcony to a larger great room with 26' ceiling. I will be mostly listening to music, but also movies as well.
I had read that the f112v2 is a better choice for music as opposed to the f113v2. Is that accurate? |
#6
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I personally would not agree with the f112 being the better choice for music vs the f113. The size sub should be mostly dictated by the size of the room, so I would only employ the 12" if the room was not big enough to support the 13.5". In your application, I am not sure the f112 would give you the results you are looking for.
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#7
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I want to obviously have it blend as seamlessly as possible with my B&W 802D3 mains. There are pros and cons with each units, and I am having a tough time deciding. |
#8
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Yes! What he said.
__________________
Main Equipment: Kharma Elegance dB11-S, JL Audio F113v2 X 2, Block Audio Line & Mono SE Amplification, Bricasti M21 DAC, Antipodes Kala K-50 Server, Clearaudio Performance SE. Satisfy tonearm & Maestro Wood MM cartridge. Power: Shunyata Everest 8000, Sigma XC v2, Sigma NR v2, Block Audio PCs, Defender, ADDPowr Wizard Grounding: Shunyata Altaira CGS - 4 X Alpha CGS cables, Network : Supra Cat 8+, Twin (Nenon) Modified Buffalo GS2016 Switches, Keces P3 LPSU, Cables: Wireworld Platinum 8 USB, Wireworld Platinum 8 Speaker cables, 6M & 1M Tubulus Concentus ICs, Other:Two PSI Audio AVAA C20, Multiple GIK products, Stillpoint Apertures, Stillpoint Minis and Ultra SS, Three 20 Amp lines, Furutech GTX - Gold outlets, Adona Rack |
#9
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JL Audio are subwoofer experts. B&W are not. Lots of very satisfied customers for each.
The JL specifies displacement and B&W does not. Displacement is the key spec for how low and loud the sub will go.
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v |
#10
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I used an Ashley crossover before upgrading to a Cr-1 and it worked fine. |
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