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DIY Sound Proofing
Any DIY'er out there. I a going to attempt to reduce sound volume escaping my HT. 20' x40' room two exteroir walls (drywall, soundboard, insulation, 8" concrete block wall with liquid expandable foam in cells, air space, real brick on exterior. The two interior wall I am curruntly addressing are sheetrock, 2x4 stud wall, R19 in wall, 5/8 sound-board and finally sheetrock for interior wall. Floor os concrete covered with hi density pad and thick carpet in front 2/3 of room and hardwood floor in back 1/3. 20' x 18' x 12" raiser on rubber feet in center of room with heavy pad and carpet.
What I plan to do is build another wall-in-a-wall. Space about 2" off existing interior wall constructed of; 3/4 hi-density MDF 4' x 8' sheets (very heavy), 2x4 stud wall, R19 or R30 in wall, another sheet of 3/4" MDF for interior wall, and maybe acoustical foam for interior finish. Do I need R19 between original wall and outside of back new wall? Double wall idea will cover the back wall and up about 1/3 of the back side walls. TH was loud enough to the neighbors next door. Now we have started up a band again and as we all know, acoustic drums are loud. Then throw in bass guitar with a powerful amp/skeaker combo. And not to mention a full Marshall guitar stack. And a powerful PA for vocals and every else. Room gets loud. Neighbors ge pissed... Any thought on the direction I'm headding with this project? .................................................. .................................................. ... |
#2
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dpgstereo.......It seems to me from your outline that you are on the right track. I would leave a dead air space between the new interior walls and the original existing outside walls. I would insulate the new inside walls using 3 1/2" thick mineral wool between the studs. It is denser than standard fiberglass insulation, and does a better job at reducing sound waves passing through. Do not insulate the dead air space between the two walls. That air volume will act as a trap, and further reduce the sound energy before it trys to finally pass through the outside walls. I would sheet rock the new interior walls with two layers of Quiet Rock. If that is too expense for the budget, then do two layers of 5/8" sheetrock, staggering the seams from one layer to the next. Make sure all doors are gasketed at top, sides, and bottom against air flow. The floating floor is a fine way to reduce low frequency vibrations from being transmitted through floor joists, as well.
As an added benefit to all of this work, you will also reduce outside noise from entering your studio space. This is always a good thing, especially with open mics during recording sessions.
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Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#3
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Worth a look...lot of info and can't beat a complimentary consultation!.
Soundproofing walls, ceilings and floors. Noise control products and solutions | Soundproofing Company |
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