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  #11  
Old 04-27-2021, 07:50 PM
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Ok, please excuse this question, but do you have the preamp plugged into the LFE input on the REL?
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  #12  
Old 04-28-2021, 02:32 AM
n_brio n_brio is offline
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The real sub is connected with highlevel and with black ground on the chassi screw and red/yellow on +termial for each channel on the amp.
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  #13  
Old 04-28-2021, 10:51 AM
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That’s the correct method.
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  #14  
Old 04-28-2021, 03:19 PM
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How does every one set there toe on olympica?
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2021, 07:00 AM
n_brio n_brio is offline
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I have now done some messurement.

with the phase 0 on the sub (purple only olympica 3)
https://www.bildtagg.se/file/225lv0y2dtfr7n77menfk7p

RT60 phase 0 on the sub
https://www.bildtagg.se/file/rne6omfkkv7w72sgva9y2zn

Waterfall phase 0 on the sub
https://www.bildtagg.se/file/9mcks6v9n1tpor6r3yudcbs

with the phase 180 on the sub (purple only olympica 3)
https://www.bildtagg.se/file/jxg35tcf7li3a9j4dnvkaq84

RT60 phase 180 on the sub
https://www.bildtagg.se/file/i1jzvrg6wcqeew30320i40qw

Waterfall phase 180 on the sub
https://www.bildtagg.se/file/6wu4sy384wenv3bh7okqn8p


would it help to add bass traps to take the edge of 40hz? And i where would i place them, in the sub corner or/and the oppisite?
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Last edited by n_brio; 04-30-2021 at 07:16 AM. Reason: add picture
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  #16  
Old 04-30-2021, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n_brio View Post
How does every one set there toe on olympica?
When I had mine, I crossed the streams behind my head by about 18”... the speakers and listening seat were an equilateral triangle with 8’ sides.

I found a laser measurer was good to point them. Have a person stand behind your listening position at 18”. Can use a laser pointer, but having the distance adds a check of the positioning. Obviously a tape measure can work as well.

Of course the bass is primarily controlled by the speaker placement relative to back wall and corner... but you know that.
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Last edited by George Prentice; 04-30-2021 at 07:42 PM.
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  #17  
Old 05-01-2021, 07:36 AM
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The other thing is your listening position is very close to the back wall which is likely a ‘hot’ spot for the low frequencies. Pulling your sofa out from the wall might help as well.

When your sub is integrated well, you shouldn’t be able to hear it. I know that is counterintuitive but it’s true. You should not be able to locate it as a source of sound.

As I mentioned in your other thread, an active crossover would help you integrate the sub better. Specifically, you could remove your Main speakers from reproducing much below 50Hz and hand off all of that job to your sub. That might help you tame the 40Hz room resonance you have.
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  #18  
Old 05-13-2021, 01:37 PM
n_brio n_brio is offline
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The problem is now solved, Just brought a pair of Amati tradition in red that stands in the room now and the sound is miles better with this speaker!
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  #19  
Old 05-13-2021, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n_brio View Post
The problem is now solved, Just brought a pair of Amati tradition in red that stands in the room now and the sound is miles better with this speaker!
That will do it. I loved my Olympica’s but the performance of the Amati are on a whole new level.
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  #20  
Old 05-13-2021, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n_brio View Post
The problem is now solved, Just brought a pair of Amati tradition in red that stands in the room now and the sound is miles better with this speaker!


Congratulations on a fine upgrade!
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Main System:
Amati Futura Mains
Amati Homage VOX Center,
Proac Response 1sc Rears,
Three MC2301's for L,C,R
MC 602 for the rears
C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80
Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic
Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation

SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC

MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material.

Lake House:
Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3

OnDeck:
McIntosh MAC 4300v
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