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  #101  
Old 06-14-2019, 06:22 AM
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I’ve just joined the dead F113 club. I was watching Spiderverse a month or so ago and it was still chugging along. But watching Bohemian Rhapsody didn’t have as much punch. My Crowson shakers probably masked the loss of the sub.

Wish I’d seen this thread earlier. I ended up ordering a GoldenEar SuperSub XXL with dual 12” and dual passive radiators today.

That arrives on Monday.

In the meantime, this will give me a chance to test my soldering skills. Thanks to the thread starter and the various contributors for the help.

To be fair, the f113 has served me well for 7 years. And it was so impressive I stopped using the Crowson transducers for a long time. I only put it back on to do a demo for a friend.

Would be keen to see how the GoldenEar stacks up.

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  #102  
Old 06-14-2019, 09:22 AM
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doggiehowser.......If you follow the method described for removing the amp from the f113 subwoofer and replace the caps described, I am relatively confident your Fathom will be back in business for years to come. It is worth repairing. It has been almost a year since I repaired my f113 and it is still working perfectly.
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  #103  
Old 06-14-2019, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdandy View Post
doggiehowser.......If you follow the method described for removing the amp from the f113 subwoofer and replace the caps described, I am relatively confident your Fathom will be back in business for years to come. It is worth repairing. It has been almost a year since I repaired my f113 and it is still working perfectly.
About to print out the photos and the instructions. It looks like there are just two large screws holding the plate amp in place?

It's still such an amazing sub. Anyone know what the v2 adds over the v1?
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  #104  
Old 06-14-2019, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doggiehowser View Post
About to print out the photos and the instructions. It looks like there are just two large screws holding the plate amp in place?

It's still such an amazing sub. Anyone know what the v2 adds over the v1?
All of the difference made to the v2 version are detailed here: https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...es-What-s-New-
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  #105  
Old 06-14-2019, 10:07 PM
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Thanks audio bill.
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  #106  
Old 06-15-2019, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdandy View Post
doggiehowser.......If you follow the method described for removing the amp from the f113 subwoofer and replace the caps described, I am relatively confident your Fathom will be back in business for years to come. It is worth repairing. It has been almost a year since I repaired my f113 and it is still working perfectly.
A friend asked me to look for caps at mouser.com

I have never been more confused.

https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...ZKkJBz7qJsY%3D

This doesn't look like the one in the photo





Or is it this one?
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...j0GWHtGlel8%3D

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  #107  
Old 06-15-2019, 02:45 AM
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Or this one?

https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...bqUE9MEHeRE%3D



Is the spec right?

The Nichicon is only rated for 1000 hours - isn't that a bit short? The Panasonic for 2000

Here's a Panasonic with 6000 hours

https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...52BwKUw0HtM%3D



I am confused.
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  #108  
Old 06-15-2019, 07:36 AM
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Default JL Audio Fathom f113 repair

Here’s what you do. Once you’ve taken the amp out of the sub enclosure, measure the size of the caps you are replacing. Diameter is usually the limiting factor for radial leaded caps.

Then find a replacement cap that is the same diameter with the same capacitance rating and the highest working voltage and temperature rating you can find. If you have a choice, go for the longer base life part as well. A base life of 2000 to 8000 hours is a good target. 1000 hrs is low.

The reason you select parts this way is that voltage stress and temperature stress are the two things that kill electrolytic caps. It’s not linear either.

Doubling the voltage spec will increase life 2.65 times.

Increasing the temp specification is an even bigger life accelerator. Going from an 85 C cap to a 105 C cap when the cap itself is at 50 C will increase the life 4 times.

These effects are multiplicative. So all other things being equal using a 105 degree C cap with twice the voltage rating of the original will increase the life 10.6 times!

I have simplified the math behind these assumptions and can point you to more info if you’d like. I used The ATT Reliability Handbook and MIL HDBK 217 to make these rough calcs.

Tom
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Last edited by W9TR; 06-15-2019 at 07:40 AM.
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  #109  
Old 06-18-2019, 09:01 AM
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Thanks for all the help and pointers.

I’ll try to pull out the amp module over the weekend.

But in the meantime, the GoldenEar is here. And for what I use it for (pure home theatre), it’s bloody awesome.

It doesn’t have ARO or XLR connections.

But it does pack a punch. And a lot of kick.

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  #110  
Old 06-18-2019, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doggiehowser View Post
A friend asked me to look for caps at mouser.com

I have never been more confused.
doggiehowser.......See post #4 for photos, and post #71 for Mouser parts numbers for the two capacitors.
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STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
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