#111
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Quote:
They both move just a bit ( 2 mm ) and go back to 0, for both amps. The 501's did the same IIRC.
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There are two means of refuge from the miseries of life: music and cats Albert Schweitzer |
#112
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Not unusual
Massimo,
Having a few early tube failures is not at all unusual. With the 2301, these failures are a complete non-event. The protection circuitry kicks in and shuts down the amp. No issues - just find and replace the bad guy. This is not the case with other amps - sometimes a tube failure will cause other componnets to fail, requiring a repair. I have over 8,000 hours on one set of KT-888's in my 2102. No issues, they still test fine. Once you get over the inital burn-in period, these tubes are very reliable.
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v |
#113
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Jérôme.......Yes, my MC501 meters bounce a small amount when the power is turned on, and the Power Guard lamp lights momentarily.
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Dan STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113 VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A |
#114
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Quote:
Remain the fact that among all tube amplifiers/preamp I've owned (and there are many, especially McIntosh) has never failed a tube! However, I have intention to purchase it equally. I love McIntosh. |
#115
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A tube fail and one that has degraded in mutual conductance readings is two different events IMO. Like comparing apples to oranges.
I've never experienced a failure neither -- in my case, the GL KT88's were first in my MC275's and then moved to the MC2301's where they were tested and found acceptable. After a few more thousand hours ontop of the hours in the MC275's -- I retested as I usually do periodically and found several had degraded into the +3,000 mhos or less. Those I decided to disgard. Tubes fail for a variety of reasons -- and there are no guarantees regardless who made them. Anyway, I don't see any correlation between a tube that goes south and associating that to the devices fault. Bob
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Amps:VAC 450iQ Monos in Silver Flake on HRS M3X2-1921's, HRS G7 Footers/G-Links & Sound Anchor Conecoasters. Preamp:VAC Statement (on order) (Silver Flake) Digital Source: dCS Rossini CD/SACD Transport, Vivaldi APEX DAC, Upsampler Plus & matching Clock (Silver) Analogue Preamp:VAC Renaissance SE Phono stage in Silver Flake with XLR Output Option & with Nordost Valhalla XLR's. Analogue Sources:SME 20/2 w/SME V arm & Nordost Odin 2 Tone Arm Cable, Palo Santos Presentation Cartridge & Akai GX-400D Reel-to-Reel w/relapped heads by JRF Magnetic Sciences. Akai RC-17 cabled remote (original owner since 1974). Vibration Control:TT on HRS M3X2-1921 shelf. Speakers:Wilson Audio Alexia V (on order in Ferrari Argento Silver/Parchment grills sitting on Acoustic Diode Kit). Power Cables:4 Nordost Odin Supreme Reference on amps, preamp & DAC. Ansuz Acoustics C2 on Transport & Clock. Power Distribution:Ansuz Mainz D3 Distributor & Ansuz Mainz C2 1M Power Cable Power Outlets:Furutech GTX-D NCF (R) duplex outlet, GTX Wall Plate & Duplex Cover (x2) on dedicated, same panel phase, 20A breakers. Speaker Cables:2M Nordost Odin 2 Supreme Reference on Nordost Sort Lifts. Signal Cables:Nordost Odin XLR's on dCS DAC & Amps. Digital Cables: Nordost Odin 2's, 110-ohm AES/EBU on dCS Transport to DAC. Clock Cables:5 each 75 ohm 1.25M Nordost Valhalla BNC/BNC Digital Ethernet Cable: WireWorld Platinum 1M Starlight® 8 Twinax Headphones:Vintage Koss Pro IV AA. RCM: Audio Desk PRO Tube Test Gear:Mint late '60's/calibrated Heathkit TT-1A, MaxiMatcher Power Amp & Preamp & Space Tech Labs ATT-3.02 tube test sets. |
#116
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Quote:
Your sig shows that you love tube amps. This one is among the best you could find. Of course, to be near 100% safe, that takes a SS amp. But to me, and to you I 'm sure, the reward is not the same.
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There are two means of refuge from the miseries of life: music and cats Albert Schweitzer Last edited by Jerome W; 09-30-2010 at 04:42 PM. |
#117
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W9TR
Please comment on the similarities/differences between your Amps: MC 2301's, MC 2102.
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Speakers: Magnepan 1.7 Accuphase: E-408 180 watt integrated amp. DAC & phono boards. Accuphase DP-55V CD/DAC MacMini music server, Ipad remote. PS Audio PPP. Kimber Hero, Kimber 8TC. Halide Bridge |
#118
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Disclaimer - this comparison is based on using my VA Beethoven speakers - I have not tried the 2102 with the Sophia II's.
The 2102's have a very classic tube sound - similar to the MC 275's. By this I mean the vocals are outstanding - smooth and silky. The highs are very clear and extended. The bass is good but not up to the standard of many solid state designs. The 2301's take it to another level in terms of clarity, dynamics, and bass articulation. They are especially quiet, all the music springs from a dark background. The 2301's don't seem to have a sound of their own like other tube amps. Very neutral. The 2102's run in bridged, (not parallel), as monoblocs are amazingly good. Close to the 2301's except for bass and the last bit of midrange articulation. Way better than a single 2102. If you can't swing the 2301's, a pair of 2102's are a great option at 1/2 the cost, roughly. I sold one of my 2102's and still have the other. I think it is a great amp by itself.
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v |
#119
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Do the 2301's drive the S2's to their full potential, in your opinion?
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#120
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Yes, I believe they do. I haven't tripped the power guard yet, and it gets plenty loud in my room. When I turn it up, they just keep getting louder and more dynamic - no stress or strain.
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Main System: Amati Futura Mains Amati Homage VOX Center, Proac Response 1sc Rears, Three MC2301's for L,C,R MC 602 for the rears C 1100, MX 151, MCD 1100, MR 80 Nottingham Dais with Wave Mechanic Sumiko Palo Santos Presentation SurfacePro 3, RPi 4, ROON, WW Starlight Platinum USB, Schiit Yggdrasil, Benchmark DAC3 HGC MX 151, OppO BDP-95, JVC RS-500 DILA projector, 106" diagonal Stewart Luxus Screenwall Deluxe with Studiotek 130 G3 material. Lake House: Ohm F, MC 275V, C2300, MR 77, Rega P3 OnDeck: McIntosh MAC 4300v |
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