Power cables...where to start 1st

[Rvl]

I would check out any pcocc-a wires , quite a number of companies are using them in cables
I have Oyaide , Acoustic Revive and...... Fujiwara...or something like that
Fujiwara makes the pcocc-a wires and sells them to other companies

Personally I would buy the wire and then buy some Furutech 028 or higher plugs and assemble everything myself

[chessman]

Originally Posted by Rod#S

It's definitely experiences like these that scare me as the components we buy aren't cheap and neither are the cables.

From power units, conditioners, etc. I guess the audible change one would be hoping to achieve would be reduced background noise. Unrelated and more so an attribute of conditioners rather than say floor units like the MPC-12 is the current delivery. Units like the big Bryston BIT's and equivilent Torus units or units like Furman's IT-Reference 20 and probably PS Audio's P10 have large power supplies for such purposes which help ensure amps especially have the necessary current when needed.

What were you hoping for out of the MPC-12? What power cable did you purchase for it? You have to buy your own for this unit don't you?

Another floor unit which comes to mind would be Siltech's Octopus. Anyone try either of the three variants?

Rod#s, here is my two cents. "Power conditioning" seems to cover three different areas: (1) stable/clean power from the wall to the components, (2) current delivery on demand, and (3) component to component noise. Point (1) is where the objectivists laugh about miles of dirty power before you get to the house and lowest bid materials in the house. Of course, every home is different so "power regeneration" may have a big effect in one home and none in another. As to point (2), there is no doubt that consumer grade mass produced power cords seriously inhibit instantaneous power delivery. BUT, one could build DIY power cords that go a long way towards fixing that. I personally want the RF/EMI rejection and other refinements that "high end" power cords provide (at least to a financial point). Point (3) is where I think the real problems arise. Everything in your rack is creating electrical fields, magnetic fields, back-feeding direct current, and reflecting within power cables in ways that we hear. Systems and power cords that are designed to deal with those issues are where I think the real need and benefit reside. I went with a Shunyata MPC-12 specifically to shield my system from a potentially noisy media server. A computer in the rack seemed like asking for trouble. I do not know if it is the superior build of the server, the magic of the MPC-12, or blind luck but I ended up with black silences and no digital glare. YMMV.

[Rod#S]

Originally Posted by chessman

Rod#s, here is my two cents. "Power conditioning" seems to cover three different areas: (1) stable/clean power from the wall to the components, (2) current delivery on demand, and (3) component to component noise. Point (1) is where the objectivists laugh about miles of dirty power before you get to the house and lowest bid materials in the house. Of course, every home is different so "power regeneration" may have a big effect in one home and none in another. As to point (2), there is no doubt that consumer grade mass produced power cords seriously inhibit instantaneous power delivery. BUT, one could build DIY power cords that go a long way towards fixing that. I personally want the RF/EMI rejection and other refinements that "high end" power cords provide (at least to a financial point). Point (3) is where I think the real problems arise. Everything in your rack is creating electrical fields, magnetic fields, back-feeding direct current, and reflecting within power cables in ways that we hear. Systems and power cords that are designed to deal with those issues are where I think the real need and benefit reside. I went with a Shunyata MPC-12 specifically to shield my system from a potentially noisy media server. A computer in the rack seemed like asking for trouble. I do not know if it is the superior build of the server, the magic of the MPC-12, or blind luck but I ended up with black silences and no digital glare. YMMV.

Very good post and I think a good reason why cables like Shunyata are so popular with their built in conditioning. The Siltech cables are also reported to be exceptionally quiet/resistant as well.

[Rod#S]

So if using conditioners and the thought is they should be 1st priority, does it make a difference if one is plugged into another vs 2 separately plugged into the wall? In my setup from the wall I go to a Furman SPR-20i voltage regulator and from that I have my 2nd unit a Furman IT-Reference connected per Furman's recommendation.

So since my units are daisy chained would I only really need to add the aftermarket cord to the SPR-20i then move to getting cables for the amps as the IT-Reference will be benefiting from having the better cable further up in the signal path? Or is this viewed as the same scenario as the amps if plugged into a conditioner, you still really want the cable on both conditioners 1st?

[Formerly YB-2]

Originally Posted by Superfrg

I use all WW silver electra power cables, and I like them.

Also went with the WW SE PC. As was discussed in the WW forum and suggested by Ivan, the 2m length (even though 1m would have been fine) seems to offer the best 'upgrade' sonically. Can say that from the instant it was installed it was an obvious improvement over the Venom it replaced. Ivan did have some special pricing on the WW cables. You might check with him to see if the 'sale' is still in effect.

[matt_zak]

Originally Posted by Rod#S

So if using conditioners and the thought is they should be 1st priority, does it make a difference if one is plugged into another vs 2 separately plugged into the wall? In my setup from the wall I go to a Furman SPR-20i voltage regulator and from that I have my 2nd unit a Furman IT-Reference connected per Furman's recommendation.

So since my units are daisy chained would I only really need to add the aftermarket cord to the SPR-20i then move to getting cables for the amps as the IT-Reference will be benefiting from having the better cable further up in the signal path? Or is this viewed as the same scenario as the amps if plugged into a conditioner, you still really want the cable on both conditioners 1st?

Rod#S,

I would recommend new cords in this order SPR-20i, IT-Ref, Amps, rest of system. WireWorld cables are my favorite but the Shunyata's are also excellent. For power cables get at least a 2m. It will make the biggest impact on your system.

Have you gotten a new wall outlet? Personally I don't hear a huge sonic difference, but, the big power cables make better contact. You won't see them start to sag from the socket over time. That alone makes it worth the investment IMHO. Sine and PS Audio both make some nice ones at various prices.

Hope this helps,

Matt

[Rod#S]

Thanks,

No unfortunately I can't replace outlets because I live in an apartment but I certainly would if I could.

I placed an order Wednesday for a 2.5m Siltech Ruby Hill II with Furutech FI-50(R) and FI-50(M) connectors. Should be here by the end of next week.

I would have liked to try the Shunyata Sigma HC but for whatever unknown reason the attempt to get the Sigmas into my hands to evaluate fell through, the Shunyata contact never got back to me and my dealer. It looked so promising there for a while but there seemed to be an issue sending me a 2.5m cable as that length isn't standard issue. I find it hard to believe that the standard power cord length is less than 2m for most people.

[matt_zak]

You can still replace outlets. I rented before I left the states. Just keep the old outlets and swap them back when you leave. Make sure you flip the breaker when you do the swap

[Rod#S]

Originally Posted by matt_zak

You can still replace outlets. I rented before I left the states. Just keep the old outlets and swap them back when you leave. Make sure you flip the breaker when you do the swap

I never thought about that. I would probably screw something up as I've never done electrical work in my life.

[matt_zak]

Lol ya, I'm an electrical/avionics specialist on fighters so I take it for granted. It's easy though. Three wires. I can help you out if the time comes. Just take a pic of the wires on the old one and connect the new one so it matches.