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  #21  
Old 12-05-2016, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tony-w View Post
I have a pair of JBL LE15A's that need it, not sure how hard it is to do.
It isn't terribly difficult, but rather time consuming (the larger the driver, the longer the time). The hardest and most time consuming part is the cleaning and prepping of the frames. Then you have to be careful to be sure the coil is centered properly and there is no rubbing of the coil. The main thing is...don't rush.
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No. 35


Main System: VPI Prime Signature TT in Rosewood, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Stillpoints LP1 V2, McIntosh: MP100, MR78, MCD1000 Transport on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, MDA1000 D/A Converter on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, MS750 Music Server, C40, MC501's (3), Soundcraftsmen: DC2215 Eq/AS1000 Real time analyzer, DBX 3BX II, Carver C9, Nakamichi Dragon, Crown SX724, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), Sony XBR55X900E 4K TV, JBL L220A's, JBL B460, Sumo Delilah active crossover, WireWorld Silver Eclipse audio interconnects, WireWorld Starlight and Silver Starlight Coaxial Digital interconnects, Wireworld SuperNova 7 Toslink digital interconnect, WireWorld Aurora 7 and Silver Electra Power cords, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 8 speaker cables, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-Ray Player, Bryson BUC-1 USB Converter, Wireworld Gold Starlight XLR Digital interconnect, PS Audio Direct Stream Power Plant 12 on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, PS Audio Dectect, FuruTech Flux-50 NCF Inline Power Filter, Add-Powr Wizard EM Field AC Line conditioner; Stillpoint Ultra SS's under (3) McIntosh MC501 Amplifiers

Florida Room/Art Studio System: Harmon Kardon T60 TT/Ortofon 2M Black, McIntosh: MR77, C32, MC2205; Crown Power Line Four, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 Digital to Analog converter, Soundcraftsmen AE2000 Eq, JBL 4313B's, JBL 2241-based Sub, JBL BX63A Active Crossover, Oppo BDP-105D Blu-Ray Player, Samsung 5500 Series 32" Smart TV, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna

Master Bedroom System: McIntosh: MX120 Theater processor, MC206 6-channel amplifier; MR74 AM/FM Tuner, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, JVC HM-DH40000U D-Theater Digital VHS, Phase Technology PC80 Towers (now used as stands), (2) JBL 4401's, (1) JBL Studio 6IW speaker, (2) JBL Studio 6IC speakers, Sony XBR-49X900E UHD TV, Panamax 1000 Line Conditioner, (2) JL Audio E110 Subwoofers, Wireworld Solstice speaker cables, Wireworld Aurora Power cords, Wireworld Equinox and Solstice speaker cables and various other flavors of Wireworld and Audioquest cabling

Office System: Marantz 150 Tuner, Crown DL 2, Crown EQ 2, Crown SA 2, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), McIntosh MCD7009 (as transport), DBX 3BX Series II, Oppo BDP-103 Blu-ray player, JBL 4401's, JL Audio E112 Subwoofer, Samsung 5500 series 32" Smart TV, Wire World Oasis audio interconnects, Wire World Solstice speaker cables, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 DSDse Digital to Analog converter, Wireworld Starlight Coaxial Digital Interconnect, Sennheiser HD800 Headphones, Sennheiser HDVA600 Headphone amp, Wireworld Silver Eclipse Balanced Interconnects, Wireworld Platinum Starlight USB Cable, Add-Powr EAU-2 AC Harmonic resonator

High Resolution Source: HP Omen 17" Gaming Laptop

Last edited by Vintage Pete; 12-23-2019 at 09:00 AM. Reason: typo
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  #22  
Old 12-05-2016, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Vintage Pete View Post
It isn't terribly difficult, but rather time consuming (the larger the driver, the longer the time). The hardest and most time consuming part is the cleaning and prepping of the frames. Then you have to be careful to be sure the coil is centered properly and there is no rubbing of the coil. The main this is...don't rush.
Thanks Pete. Do you recommend using a pre-assembled kit?
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  #23  
Old 12-06-2016, 12:14 AM
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Thanks Pete. Do you recommend using a pre-assembled kit?
Yes, there is a good selection of kits available on eBay. Some come with a CD with a test tone to aid in centering the cones, others come with shims. I prefer to use a tone as you don't have to remove the dust cap with this method. You should do fine with one of these kits-just follow the directions carefully and take your time.

If you're not confident in doing it yourself, a speaker repair center can do the work for you. Just be careful you don't get one of these guys that glues the new surround to the front of the cone while telling you it doesn't matter!
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No. 35


Main System: VPI Prime Signature TT in Rosewood, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Stillpoints LP1 V2, McIntosh: MP100, MR78, MCD1000 Transport on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, MDA1000 D/A Converter on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, MS750 Music Server, C40, MC501's (3), Soundcraftsmen: DC2215 Eq/AS1000 Real time analyzer, DBX 3BX II, Carver C9, Nakamichi Dragon, Crown SX724, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), Sony XBR55X900E 4K TV, JBL L220A's, JBL B460, Sumo Delilah active crossover, WireWorld Silver Eclipse audio interconnects, WireWorld Starlight and Silver Starlight Coaxial Digital interconnects, Wireworld SuperNova 7 Toslink digital interconnect, WireWorld Aurora 7 and Silver Electra Power cords, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 8 speaker cables, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-Ray Player, Bryson BUC-1 USB Converter, Wireworld Gold Starlight XLR Digital interconnect, PS Audio Direct Stream Power Plant 12 on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, PS Audio Dectect, FuruTech Flux-50 NCF Inline Power Filter, Add-Powr Wizard EM Field AC Line conditioner; Stillpoint Ultra SS's under (3) McIntosh MC501 Amplifiers

Florida Room/Art Studio System: Harmon Kardon T60 TT/Ortofon 2M Black, McIntosh: MR77, C32, MC2205; Crown Power Line Four, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 Digital to Analog converter, Soundcraftsmen AE2000 Eq, JBL 4313B's, JBL 2241-based Sub, JBL BX63A Active Crossover, Oppo BDP-105D Blu-Ray Player, Samsung 5500 Series 32" Smart TV, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna

Master Bedroom System: McIntosh: MX120 Theater processor, MC206 6-channel amplifier; MR74 AM/FM Tuner, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, JVC HM-DH40000U D-Theater Digital VHS, Phase Technology PC80 Towers (now used as stands), (2) JBL 4401's, (1) JBL Studio 6IW speaker, (2) JBL Studio 6IC speakers, Sony XBR-49X900E UHD TV, Panamax 1000 Line Conditioner, (2) JL Audio E110 Subwoofers, Wireworld Solstice speaker cables, Wireworld Aurora Power cords, Wireworld Equinox and Solstice speaker cables and various other flavors of Wireworld and Audioquest cabling

Office System: Marantz 150 Tuner, Crown DL 2, Crown EQ 2, Crown SA 2, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), McIntosh MCD7009 (as transport), DBX 3BX Series II, Oppo BDP-103 Blu-ray player, JBL 4401's, JL Audio E112 Subwoofer, Samsung 5500 series 32" Smart TV, Wire World Oasis audio interconnects, Wire World Solstice speaker cables, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 DSDse Digital to Analog converter, Wireworld Starlight Coaxial Digital Interconnect, Sennheiser HD800 Headphones, Sennheiser HDVA600 Headphone amp, Wireworld Silver Eclipse Balanced Interconnects, Wireworld Platinum Starlight USB Cable, Add-Powr EAU-2 AC Harmonic resonator

High Resolution Source: HP Omen 17" Gaming Laptop
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  #24  
Old 12-15-2019, 04:52 AM
Giovanni68 Giovanni68 is offline
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Hello Pete,

I am resurrecting this now old thread as I just finally got a pair of L220 home, I hope they will soon take the place which has been held by the 4311B I bought when I was a teen (and am not in that league since over three decades).

The L220 used to belong to a single owner whose son is a friend of mine, he put his dad's stuff on sale and I helped him with selling some of the gear and got some myself but the L220 seemed too big and expensive for my space and budget not to mention they got old and sitting unused since a while but, hey, things change...

I got them since two weeks, at a first quick test one of the two speakers sound was lower than the other, woofers suspensions look good, the passive radiator's are definitely gone, I pulled the trigger and had them brought to my (little) place, I thought that, still, the 4311B have to sit on a stand (which actually are two yard chairs...), the L220 would end up 10 inches higher and a little (...) wider so why not to try (I don't have a wife any longer but still, afraid of my mum's comments when she finds out...).

Watched quite a few videos about suspension replacement and it sure is tricky but not that much not to say that being the passive radiators free of coil there is less risk of harm, ordered the new foams as well as the gaskets and now waiting for them to reach me.

Removed the PR out of one of the two cabinets to start and clean it, with a cutter took away the gaskets and old foam or, better, what was left of the foam both off the cone and the frame of the speaker itself, not a big deal at all, used some thinner applied with a paper cloth to help soften the hardest part and again went on with the cutter and the cone is clean and free (they were already redone by the original owner as well as the woofers which are still in good conditions but can tell the work was not done perfectly), some thin sandpaper to the frame made it clean and gave me confidence to move onto the other one which I will soon start (mind you, those things are huge and my space is limited).

Quite a surprise to see those connecting cables from 40 years ago and how people stresses about audiophile cables... by the way, removed the crossover from the back, found out that the l-pads have some "mute" gaps but I guess that with usage and some dry contact cleanser they should get back to work, I also checked continuity of the woofer with a tester and connection between the speakers and their pins on the crossover, it all seems fine, can tell all the components are the original ones and I guess the caps, at least those big yellow standing ones, would better be replaced but this will eventually happens after new suspensions are on place and it all sounds as it was back in time.

Once I am done I will sure be back to ask how to revert the cabinets to original, the owner had the brilliant (...) idea to paint them with a lick of varnish, mind you, I own a small boat with a nice mahogany top and I know about varnish, when I redo it from scratch it takes me at least 6-7 layers of it to reach an acceptable result and I know how hard is to remove it all but why on earth you want to paint speaker cabinets, to preserve them???
So, one day I will want to restore them to original but am afraid that using a phon and a scraper would make a mess, I will sure have to remove the speakers first and then attempt it but this is another story we'll eventually talk about later on.

The other bit would be networks/crossovers, I can handle a soldering iron but not really aware of how a cap works (in Italian they are called "condensatori"), I am trying to learn about them and also asking on general hifi Italian forums but replies are so very varying, somebody suggested to even use automotive caps for those values I can't find (like a 36uF which I still haven't found by a quick browsing), somebody says that those laid down flat on the network board should still be good whilst the yellow ones are sure out of original specs, I wouldn't want to spend audiophile money onto them, not yet at least but just replace them with new ones to, at least, keep original features if not improving, I will have to reopen the cabinets to find out which voltage they are (found the F values on the schematic of the N220 network and also found through a video that the missing value one not marked on the schematic should be a 3uF one) but dunno which kind of cap nor if they have or not a polarity to respect.

Will try and post pics of the cabinets, speakers and networks in the coming days if it is no issue but, Pete, reading about your journey and results with your L220 sure boosted my will to work at them even tho I am pretty sure I'll not reach (anytime soon) your results but nonetheless it was a very pleasant reading, so very brave and bravo!!!

Best

Giovanni
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  #25  
Old 12-15-2019, 03:26 PM
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Giovanni68... Welcome to AA!
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Reference System: ACCUPHASE A300 AMPS, C3900 PRE-AMP, DP1000 CD/SACD TRANSPORT, DC1000 DIGITAL PROCESSOR, DG-68 DIGITAL EQUALIZER, T1200 FM STEREO TUNER, PS1230 POWER SUPPLY, HRS-SXR CUSTOM RACK w/ M3X SHELVES, TAD REFERENCE ONE MK2 LOUDSPEAKERS, WW PLATINUM CABLES
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MX150, MC501(2) MC1.2KW(10) MC2301(2) MR88, MVP881, MCD1100, MDA1000, C1000C/P/T, MPC1500, ESOTERIC K-01X 30th ANNIVERSARY (BLACK) SACD/CD PLAYER, G02-X CLOCK, HT3F(2) XRT2K, XCS2K, XR27(2) JL GOTHAM v2 SUBS(2) JL FATHOM F113v2 SUBS(4) SOUND ANCHOR STANDS(2) KALEIDESCAPE STRATO & TERRA SERVERS 80-TB, LUMAGEN RADIANCE SCALER, SONY VPH-G90U 4K PROJECTOR, STEWART 120" SCREEN, SONUS FABER STRADIVARI, SILENZIO MUSIC SERVER, FORTRESS SEATING, WW PLATINUM CABLES
Analog Rig: CLEARAUDIO INNOVATION WOOD, UNIVERSAL ARM w/ Da VINCI' CART, 2nd UNIVERSAL ARM w/ GOLDFINGER STATEMENT CART, HRS-MXR REFERENCE RACK-GLOSS BLACK w/ M3X SHELVES, AESTHETIX RHEA SIG PHONO-PRE, BRYSTON BHA-1 HEADPHONE AMP, WW PLATINUM CABLES
Reference System: BURMESTER 911MK3 AMP(3), 088 PRE-AMP, 089 CD PLAYER, 100 PHONO PRE-AMP, 948 POWER CONDITIONER, ACCUPHASE DG-68 VOICING EQUALIZER, AVID ACUTUS REFERENCE SP TT, GRAHAM PHANTOM II SUPREME ARM, BENZ MICRO LP-S CART, GRANDIOSO P1X/D1X STACK, G1X RUBIDIUM MASTER CLOCK, N05 NETWORK PLAYER, SILENZIO MUSIC SERVER, HRS-SXR CUSTOM RACK w/ M3X SHELVES, SONUS FABER AIDA SPEAKERS, JL FATHOM F113v2 SUBS(2) SOUND ANCHOR STANDS(2) WW PLATINUM CABLES

Library System: GRANDIOSO M1 MONOBLOCK AMPS, C1 LINESTAGE PRE-AMP, K1X CD/SACD PLAYER, G1 MASTER RUBIDIUM CLOCK, E02 PHONO-PRE, SILENZIO MUSIC SERVER, AERIAL ACOUSTICS 20T V2, AERIAL SW12 SUBS(2), CANTON REF K1’s, VPI HRX TT w/ SDS POWER SUPPLY, ORTOFON CADENZA BLACK CART, KLAUDIO RCM, SHUNYATA DENALI 6000/S v2, SHUNYATA OMEGA QR’s, WW PLATINUM CABLES
Esoteric/Bryston System: ESOTERIC C02-X PRE-AMP, P-02X TRANSPORT, D02-X DAC, G02-X CLOCK, BRYSTON 28B3 CUBED MONOBLOCK AMPS(4), BRYSTON BHA-1 HEADPHONE AMP, SHUNYATA DENALI 6000/S v2(2) EVEREST 8000 POWER CONDITIONER(2) ALTAIRA CG & SG HUBS, AMR-DP777-SE DAC, SILENZIO MUSIC SERVER, TAD REFERENCE ONE MK2 LOUDSPEAKERS, QUADRASPIRE RACK, WW PLATINUM CABLES
Accuphase/Canton System: ACCUPHASE E800 INTEGRATED, DP570 CD/SACD PLAYER, T1200 FM STEREO TUNER, DG-68 VOICING EQUALIZER, PS530 POWER SUPPLY, CANTON REF K3’s, CANTON REF K5’s, SILENZIO MUSIC SERVER, HRS MXR REFERENCE MAHOGHANY RACK w/ M3X2 SHELVES, WW GOLD CABLES
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  #26  
Old 12-15-2019, 06:45 PM
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Giovanni68.......Welcome to Audio Aficionado. .

Good post. I'm sure Pete will respond.
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STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A
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  #27  
Old 12-15-2019, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giovanni68 View Post
Hello Pete,

I am resurrecting this now old thread as I just finally got a pair of L220 home, I hope they will soon take the place which has been held by the 4311B I bought when I was a teen (and am not in that league since over three decades).

The L220 used to belong to a single owner whose son is a friend of mine, he put his dad's stuff on sale and I helped him with selling some of the gear and got some myself but the L220 seemed too big and expensive for my space and budget not to mention they got old and sitting unused since a while but, hey, things change...

I got them since two weeks, at a first quick test one of the two speakers sound was lower than the other, woofers suspensions look good, the passive radiator's are definitely gone, I pulled the trigger and had them brought to my (little) place, I thought that, still, the 4311B have to sit on a stand (which actually are two yard chairs...), the L220 would end up 10 inches higher and a little (...) wider so why not to try (I don't have a wife any longer but still, afraid of my mum's comments when she finds out...).

Watched quite a few videos about suspension replacement and it sure is tricky but not that much not to say that being the passive radiators free of coil there is less risk of harm, ordered the new foams as well as the gaskets and now waiting for them to reach me.

Removed the PR out of one of the two cabinets to start and clean it, with a cutter took away the gaskets and old foam or, better, what was left of the foam both off the cone and the frame of the speaker itself, not a big deal at all, used some thinner applied with a paper cloth to help soften the hardest part and again went on with the cutter and the cone is clean and free (they were already redone by the original owner as well as the woofers which are still in good conditions but can tell the work was not done perfectly), some thin sandpaper to the frame made it clean and gave me confidence to move onto the other one which I will soon start (mind you, those things are huge and my space is limited).

Quite a surprise to see those connecting cables from 40 years ago and how people stresses about audiophile cables... by the way, removed the crossover from the back, found out that the l-pads have some "mute" gaps but I guess that with usage and some dry contact cleanser they should get back to work, I also checked continuity of the woofer with a tester and connection between the speakers and their pins on the crossover, it all seems fine, can tell all the components are the original ones and I guess the caps, at least those big yellow standing ones, would better be replaced but this will eventually happens after new suspensions are on place and it all sounds as it was back in time.

Once I am done I will sure be back to ask how to revert the cabinets to original, the owner had the brilliant (...) idea to paint them with a lick of varnish, mind you, I own a small boat with a nice mahogany top and I know about varnish, when I redo it from scratch it takes me at least 6-7 layers of it to reach an acceptable result and I know how hard is to remove it all but why on earth you want to paint speaker cabinets, to preserve them???
So, one day I will want to restore them to original but am afraid that using a phon and a scraper would make a mess, I will sure have to remove the speakers first and then attempt it but this is another story we'll eventually talk about later on.

The other bit would be networks/crossovers, I can handle a soldering iron but not really aware of how a cap works (in Italian they are called "condensatori"), I am trying to learn about them and also asking on general hifi Italian forums but replies are so very varying, somebody suggested to even use automotive caps for those values I can't find (like a 36uF which I still haven't found by a quick browsing), somebody says that those laid down flat on the network board should still be good whilst the yellow ones are sure out of original specs, I wouldn't want to spend audiophile money onto them, not yet at least but just replace them with new ones to, at least, keep original features if not improving, I will have to reopen the cabinets to find out which voltage they are (found the F values on the schematic of the N220 network and also found through a video that the missing value one not marked on the schematic should be a 3uF one) but dunno which kind of cap nor if they have or not a polarity to respect.

Will try and post pics of the cabinets, speakers and networks in the coming days if it is no issue but, Pete, reading about your journey and results with your L220 sure boosted my will to work at them even tho I am pretty sure I'll not reach (anytime soon) your results but nonetheless it was a very pleasant reading, so very brave and bravo!!!

Best

Giovanni

Giovanni68....first of all, Welcome to AA!

Secondly, thanks for taking such an interest in my post from three years ago. Shame on Photobucket for wrecking my photos. I'll never use them again.

The first thing that jumps out at me with your excellent post is, here is someone who has wanted a pair of these for a long time, just as I did so many years ago. I can feel your excitement as you get started on your project. I can assure you, without hesitation, that every minute of your time will be time well spent. I've owned my L220's now going on 38 years. I knew at the time I was buying a great set of speakers. I was beyond excited at the time. What I really didn't realize at the time was the full potential that these speakers have. I've really come to realize this mostly in the last three years or so, since I rebuilt the crossovers, and more recently the speaker cable upgrade to a truly premium speaker cable. Of course all of the upgrades I've done to the system and room have had an effect for sure. But the L220 has revealed every upgrade with ease, as if to say give me more, give me more. They seem to have no real limit here. If I seem like I'm still excited, it's because I am. There are other highly revered JBL models (such as the L300) that are fabulous no doubt, but the tower design of the L220 offers advantages in my opinion. Once the L220 is fully upgraded, connected to a premiium system and set up properly in a favorable environment, they are simply astonishing.

I would encourage you, when the time comes to upgrade your crossover components, to buy the best components you can. Why buy cheap parts now, and have to do the work again later? You may have to pair some caps, as I did, to obtain the correct values. As to the "dead spots" in the crossover L-Pads, cleaning them may or may not fix the problem. And, getting the knobs off to replace the L-Pad is not easy. I ended up buying a replacement network on eBay with good L-Pads, and then upgraded it.

As far as refoaming the drivers, just take your time. It's a critical job but isn't overly difficult.

I can't imagine why anyone would want to ruin the cabinets on these speakers with varnish. I've seen some painted gloss black! What were they thinking???!!

You might also want to upgrade the binding posts. One question...are your L220's the older version or the "A" version? Put another way, is the 14" woofer an LE14A or an LE14H? The L220A uses the LE14H. It has a heavier magnet, and has an improved voice coil gap design and higher power handling capacity. Don't fret if you have the older model, (with the LE14A driver) it is also excellent.

What kind of system do you have?

I wish you the best of luck with your project. I'm excited for you. If you have any questions, I'll help you if I can.

Carry on!
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No. 35


Main System: VPI Prime Signature TT in Rosewood, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Stillpoints LP1 V2, McIntosh: MP100, MR78, MCD1000 Transport on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, MDA1000 D/A Converter on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, MS750 Music Server, C40, MC501's (3), Soundcraftsmen: DC2215 Eq/AS1000 Real time analyzer, DBX 3BX II, Carver C9, Nakamichi Dragon, Crown SX724, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), Sony XBR55X900E 4K TV, JBL L220A's, JBL B460, Sumo Delilah active crossover, WireWorld Silver Eclipse audio interconnects, WireWorld Starlight and Silver Starlight Coaxial Digital interconnects, Wireworld SuperNova 7 Toslink digital interconnect, WireWorld Aurora 7 and Silver Electra Power cords, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 8 speaker cables, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-Ray Player, Bryson BUC-1 USB Converter, Wireworld Gold Starlight XLR Digital interconnect, PS Audio Direct Stream Power Plant 12 on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, PS Audio Dectect, FuruTech Flux-50 NCF Inline Power Filter, Add-Powr Wizard EM Field AC Line conditioner; Stillpoint Ultra SS's under (3) McIntosh MC501 Amplifiers

Florida Room/Art Studio System: Harmon Kardon T60 TT/Ortofon 2M Black, McIntosh: MR77, C32, MC2205; Crown Power Line Four, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 Digital to Analog converter, Soundcraftsmen AE2000 Eq, JBL 4313B's, JBL 2241-based Sub, JBL BX63A Active Crossover, Oppo BDP-105D Blu-Ray Player, Samsung 5500 Series 32" Smart TV, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna

Master Bedroom System: McIntosh: MX120 Theater processor, MC206 6-channel amplifier; MR74 AM/FM Tuner, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, JVC HM-DH40000U D-Theater Digital VHS, Phase Technology PC80 Towers (now used as stands), (2) JBL 4401's, (1) JBL Studio 6IW speaker, (2) JBL Studio 6IC speakers, Sony XBR-49X900E UHD TV, Panamax 1000 Line Conditioner, (2) JL Audio E110 Subwoofers, Wireworld Solstice speaker cables, Wireworld Aurora Power cords, Wireworld Equinox and Solstice speaker cables and various other flavors of Wireworld and Audioquest cabling

Office System: Marantz 150 Tuner, Crown DL 2, Crown EQ 2, Crown SA 2, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), McIntosh MCD7009 (as transport), DBX 3BX Series II, Oppo BDP-103 Blu-ray player, JBL 4401's, JL Audio E112 Subwoofer, Samsung 5500 series 32" Smart TV, Wire World Oasis audio interconnects, Wire World Solstice speaker cables, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 DSDse Digital to Analog converter, Wireworld Starlight Coaxial Digital Interconnect, Sennheiser HD800 Headphones, Sennheiser HDVA600 Headphone amp, Wireworld Silver Eclipse Balanced Interconnects, Wireworld Platinum Starlight USB Cable, Add-Powr EAU-2 AC Harmonic resonator

High Resolution Source: HP Omen 17" Gaming Laptop

Last edited by Vintage Pete; 12-16-2019 at 05:43 AM.
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  #28  
Old 12-16-2019, 01:17 AM
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Pete.......
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Dan



STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital cable, Sonos Connect, PurePower 2000, Stillpoints, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Wireworld, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario
LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable, Micro Seiki DD40, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, Nakamichi BX-300, Sony 60ES DAT, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Sonos Connect, Stillpoints, Wireworld, Kimber, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113
VINTAGE - McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, Sony DTC-59ES DAT, McIntosh 4300V, JBL 4312A
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  #29  
Old 12-19-2019, 02:59 PM
Giovanni68 Giovanni68 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vintage Pete View Post
Giovanni68....first of all, Welcome to AA!

I wish you the best of luck with your project. I'm excited for you. If you have any questions, I'll help you if I can.

Carry on!
Ciao Pete,

reading your post was quite entertaining and pouring passion off of every line... yes, what a pity pics being gone but, in a way, doesn't make me feel too bad for not being able (yet) to restore my L220 up to yours

Today heavy rain and an on and off thunderstorm made me remove the other passive radiatore and clean it up off the old foam and ready to be done once I get the new surrounds which, by the way, are coming off the US and even tho less than 100$ you never know how Italian customs behave and even worse how Italian Post service does, till leaving the US tracking was available, for what it matters they could be anywhere now and I'll never get to know not to mention that with xmas next door I might see them in 2020, ahhh l'Italia...

As I mentioned before the ex owner had the brilliant idea to paint them, it bothers me biiiiiig time and sure I will try and revert them back to original, not now, now I just want to make them work, next crossovers and next the cabinet.

Once I decide to move on I will come back to ask advise about the caps, which kind to use on either low, mid and high, hopefully the pads won't need anything else than some spray and usage.

Before removing the passive radiators I plugged them to an old integrated amp I bought along with my 4311B (which are now playing Dire Straits) and, wow, they are on another league, not quality wise but quantity wise, can tell the state is so much bigger compared to the monitors and the air they move, even tho 1db less, is a lot more, just can't wait to do the PR15 and set them back to work.

As far as system mine is old even tho I upgraded recently but still with vintage stuff, preamp is an AR SP9, CD player a Sony X505ES, power amp a heavy Chinese Aeron AP890 with twin KT88, in the storage a small but powerful Adcom GFA 535 which I might revive by, again, changing the caps, cables are very old Monster Cable but I would give a try at some DIY ones, then there is a DAC, a little British Beresford Caiman SEG with its own power bric, definitely too many switches to move to listen to some music, luckily no wife to mess up with it and, oh, the nicest and less used piece, a Michell Gyrodec MKI and the Kiseki step-up which I will try and sell once I decide where to invest it onto, I think I will need a proper power amp but long way before I can afford one (or two...)

Oh, by your hint I checked the woofers and they are the LE14A so mine should be the first release, I dunno why the owner filled the bottom of the cabinet with some heavy foam, maybe to absorb some of the stationary waves?

On both of the passive radiators one of the things holding the screws in place on the cabinet is missing, no big deal since there are 8 each but I wonder if I can retrieve a pair just to have it all in place.

Well, enough for today, thank you for replying the old thread and for the inspiration and help you'll provide

Giovanni

p.s in my next life, once I get a little wider space, Klipschorn will find a spot along with an Oracle Delphi
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  #30  
Old 12-19-2019, 08:06 PM
Vintage Pete's Avatar
Vintage Pete Vintage Pete is offline
Remembering Dan



 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Tampa Bay, FL
Posts: 7,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giovanni68 View Post
Ciao Pete,

reading your post was quite entertaining and pouring passion off of every line... yes, what a pity pics being gone but, in a way, doesn't make me feel too bad for not being able (yet) to restore my L220 up to yours

Today heavy rain and an on and off thunderstorm made me remove the other passive radiatore and clean it up off the old foam and ready to be done once I get the new surrounds which, by the way, are coming off the US and even tho less than 100$ you never know how Italian customs behave and even worse how Italian Post service does, till leaving the US tracking was available, for what it matters they could be anywhere now and I'll never get to know not to mention that with xmas next door I might see them in 2020, ahhh l'Italia...

As I mentioned before the ex owner had the brilliant idea to paint them, it bothers me biiiiiig time and sure I will try and revert them back to original, not now, now I just want to make them work, next crossovers and next the cabinet.

Once I decide to move on I will come back to ask advise about the caps, which kind to use on either low, mid and high, hopefully the pads won't need anything else than some spray and usage.

Before removing the passive radiators I plugged them to an old integrated amp I bought along with my 4311B (which are now playing Dire Straits) and, wow, they are on another league, not quality wise but quantity wise, can tell the state is so much bigger compared to the monitors and the air they move, even tho 1db less, is a lot more, just can't wait to do the PR15 and set them back to work.

As far as system mine is old even tho I upgraded recently but still with vintage stuff, preamp is an AR SP9, CD player a Sony X505ES, power amp a heavy Chinese Aeron AP890 with twin KT88, in the storage a small but powerful Adcom GFA 535 which I might revive by, again, changing the caps, cables are very old Monster Cable but I would give a try at some DIY ones, then there is a DAC, a little British Beresford Caiman SEG with its own power bric, definitely too many switches to move to listen to some music, luckily no wife to mess up with it and, oh, the nicest and less used piece, a Michell Gyrodec MKI and the Kiseki step-up which I will try and sell once I decide where to invest it onto, I think I will need a proper power amp but long way before I can afford one (or two...)

Oh, by your hint I checked the woofers and they are the LE14A so mine should be the first release, I dunno why the owner filled the bottom of the cabinet with some heavy foam, maybe to absorb some of the stationary waves?

On both of the passive radiators one of the things holding the screws in place on the cabinet is missing, no big deal since there are 8 each but I wonder if I can retrieve a pair just to have it all in place.

Well, enough for today, thank you for replying the old thread and for the inspiration and help you'll provide

Giovanni

p.s in my next life, once I get a little wider space, Klipschorn will find a spot along with an Oracle Delphi
Giovanni....I'm always happy to share my thoughts with a fellow JBL fan, even more so if that fan is working to restore a pair of L220's. I'm convinced that if you take your L220's far enough, you won't worry about Klipschorns any more . ( I've always dreamed of an Oracle Turntable though!) A little trivia...you probably know that JBL had names for many of their models (L100 Century, L300 Summit, etc). Did you know that the L220 was named Oracle?

I still have all my pictures from this old thread, one day soon I might replace the pictures that photobucket ruined so you can see them...

Just take your time my friend, your efforts will be worth it. Do the work by priority, as you say.

That foam in the bottom of the cabinet you mentioned was put there by the factory. Mine deteriorated with age; some years ago I replaced it. You'll also find some foam blocks inside on either side of the midrange chamber that will probably need replacement.

Stay the course and take your time, you won't be sorry. I'll keep checking back on this thread.....
__________________
Pete

No. 35


Main System: VPI Prime Signature TT in Rosewood, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Stillpoints LP1 V2, McIntosh: MP100, MR78, MCD1000 Transport on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, MDA1000 D/A Converter on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, MS750 Music Server, C40, MC501's (3), Soundcraftsmen: DC2215 Eq/AS1000 Real time analyzer, DBX 3BX II, Carver C9, Nakamichi Dragon, Crown SX724, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), Sony XBR55X900E 4K TV, JBL L220A's, JBL B460, Sumo Delilah active crossover, WireWorld Silver Eclipse audio interconnects, WireWorld Starlight and Silver Starlight Coaxial Digital interconnects, Wireworld SuperNova 7 Toslink digital interconnect, WireWorld Aurora 7 and Silver Electra Power cords, Wireworld Silver Eclipse 8 speaker cables, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna, Oppo UDP-205 4K Blu-Ray Player, Bryson BUC-1 USB Converter, Wireworld Gold Starlight XLR Digital interconnect, PS Audio Direct Stream Power Plant 12 on Stillpoint Ultra Minis, PS Audio Dectect, FuruTech Flux-50 NCF Inline Power Filter, Add-Powr Wizard EM Field AC Line conditioner; Stillpoint Ultra SS's under (3) McIntosh MC501 Amplifiers

Florida Room/Art Studio System: Harmon Kardon T60 TT/Ortofon 2M Black, McIntosh: MR77, C32, MC2205; Crown Power Line Four, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 Digital to Analog converter, Soundcraftsmen AE2000 Eq, JBL 4313B's, JBL 2241-based Sub, JBL BX63A Active Crossover, Oppo BDP-105D Blu-Ray Player, Samsung 5500 Series 32" Smart TV, Terk AF-1 Powered Antenna

Master Bedroom System: McIntosh: MX120 Theater processor, MC206 6-channel amplifier; MR74 AM/FM Tuner, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, JVC HM-DH40000U D-Theater Digital VHS, Phase Technology PC80 Towers (now used as stands), (2) JBL 4401's, (1) JBL Studio 6IW speaker, (2) JBL Studio 6IC speakers, Sony XBR-49X900E UHD TV, Panamax 1000 Line Conditioner, (2) JL Audio E110 Subwoofers, Wireworld Solstice speaker cables, Wireworld Aurora Power cords, Wireworld Equinox and Solstice speaker cables and various other flavors of Wireworld and Audioquest cabling

Office System: Marantz 150 Tuner, Crown DL 2, Crown EQ 2, Crown SA 2, Crown D-75A (as headphone amp), McIntosh MCD7009 (as transport), DBX 3BX Series II, Oppo BDP-103 Blu-ray player, JBL 4401's, JL Audio E112 Subwoofer, Samsung 5500 series 32" Smart TV, Wire World Oasis audio interconnects, Wire World Solstice speaker cables, Wyred for Sound DAC-2 DSDse Digital to Analog converter, Wireworld Starlight Coaxial Digital Interconnect, Sennheiser HD800 Headphones, Sennheiser HDVA600 Headphone amp, Wireworld Silver Eclipse Balanced Interconnects, Wireworld Platinum Starlight USB Cable, Add-Powr EAU-2 AC Harmonic resonator

High Resolution Source: HP Omen 17" Gaming Laptop
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