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Subwoofers 80hz and Down under!

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  #21  
Old 07-01-2016, 12:58 PM
Superfrg Superfrg is offline
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I think the biggest bang for the buck crossover is a Minidsp component.
Behringer (who makes pro gear) has a few crossovers, which is also very affordable.

I have not tried any of these myself, but its quite a pricey jump to a bryston or jl audio crossover.
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  #22  
Old 07-03-2016, 12:24 PM
paulphoosreal paulphoosreal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1markr View Post
I will try that with the ML, but there are only 2 choices for the hi pass.... 40 hz and 70 hz. The 40 is prob too low, but the 70 may work.
I'd use the 40. You are only seeking to bolster the low end and take the load off your bass drivers. I crossover at 40 with my Aerial 7Ts and its remarkable how they sound. Like a full range floor stander!
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  #23  
Old 07-09-2016, 01:42 AM
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1markr... Welcome to AA!
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  #24  
Old 07-09-2016, 11:46 AM
trponhunter trponhunter is offline
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Specifications | Trinnov Audio
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  #25  
Old 09-28-2016, 03:29 PM
1markr 1markr is offline
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Just wanted to close the loop here, and hopefully help someone else.... Thanks for the helpful responses folks.

I did use try the MLs built in crossover, and it accomplished what I wanted, but I wasn't overly impressed with the results. Seems I lost some transparency and dynamics, and some slight noise was introduced.

I haven't tried any of the active x-over solutions listed here, but what has really worked for quite nicely, are a pair of FMOD passive 2nd order high pass filters from Harrison Labs. I bought the 50 and 70 Hz filters and both work nicely, and they were under $35 per stereo pair.

I think I prefer the 70 hz filter better (which also helps with a 60 hz in room bump), and that's what's connected to my amp at this time, while my preamp's secondary output is connected directly to my ML sub. I really can't tell they are there other than filtering out the low bass to my Omega Super Alnico monitors. The -12db point is somewhere around 35hz. They do enough to get rid of the midrange distortion caused by trying to reproduce the low bass, and now I can play my Omegas louder and cleaner, without any strain or distortion. I don't hear any negative side affects. These were a win for me!

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  #26  
Old 05-14-2020, 07:03 PM
allhifi allhifi is offline
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Default Agreed ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulphoosreal View Post
I'd use the 40. You are only seeking to bolster the low end and take the load off your bass drivers. I crossover at 40 with my Aerial 7Ts and its remarkable how they sound. Like a full range floor stander!
That is a really good recommendation; the lowest (sensible) cross-over frequency selected, the better. For a full-range loudspeaker, 60 Hz. would be the upper limit -depending of course on slope. With 24 db/LR, at x-over point, signal level is down (theoretically) 6-db.; in which case, if set to 45 Hz (LP/HP),
the 'Mains' are already down (-) 6db -a considerable attenuation, implying a roll off some 0.5/1-octave above (and below) set x-over point.

Ensuring that only the main speakers reproduce the 40Hz/50 Hz. and up region ensures the bulk of (99%) of instrument fundamental tones are reproduced by the main speakers; once we creep up into 70-90 Hz (x-over), the sub now becomes a significant 'stereo' contributor -not a good idea to my mind/ ears.

As many here know, the improvements gained with a premium sub/main (both acoustically/electrically) the listener is in for a real 'treat'; enveloping, dynamic, clear, articulate -amazing SQ.

Cheers,

pj
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  #27  
Old 09-12-2023, 07:03 AM
Jazzman53 Jazzman53 is offline
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My experience with active crossovers is limited to the one I own (DBX Driverack Venu 360) so I would not be competent to advise anyone on a specific brand.

I just wanted to encourage you to take the plunge into active crossovers, and to the extend possible, eliminate any passive components between the amps and drivers. Going fully active may seem intimidating as far as setup and adjustments but it's actually not difficult and the results are wonderful.

In my case, I had no choice other than an active crossover because I didn't know how to build a passive crossover for a hybrid ESL (an ESL's impedance is frequency-dependent, which complicates a crossover design).

If you go fully active with a digital crossover the bass becomes much tighter and more controlled because there is no longer a passive inductor between the and amp and woofer.

And the kids & highs are also much cleaner because any phasing errors that were [almost certainly] added buy the passive components are then gone.

Any perhaps the coolest feature of all is that a DSP provides almost infinite tuning capabilities, all in real time from your listening position using an iPad or tablet interface.

Going active certainly spoiled me. I would never allow a passive crossover in my system now.
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