View Single Post
  #4  
Old 12-31-2021, 05:05 PM
crwilli's Avatar
crwilli crwilli is online now
Racing Hoopties

 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Bluffton SC
Posts: 9,787
Default Sumiko master set-up process

This process is something attributed to what Sumiko taught its speaker installers. None of us can know for sure if this is true or not. I was not trained on it but have followed it many times. It requires patience and trained ears.

I didn’t get to caught up with the words - pace, pressure etc. I tried to hear the best bass I could find. That is a personal choice/decision.

This can make you go ‘mad’ if you let it. Yes, when you get them dialed in - working with the room and each other - it can be magical with great bass and imaging, there is nothing magical about it. It’s all physics.

When you hit a wall eg can’t hear changes. Step away for a few hours or overnight. It will help keep you sane.

See my attempts to answer your questions below.

Please note that toe in of 18” behind your head is in only a starting point as you may tweak it at the end of the process.

Good luck


Quote:
Originally Posted by hattrick15 View Post
I just stumbled across your excellent post on the Sumiko Master Set-Up. I have questions that I hope you will answer. My questions are mostly to clarify your statements to make sure I understand what you are suggesting. Sorry for all of the questions!



1) In Step 1, you describe moving the left speaker straight forward "while doing your best to maintain toe-in". Do you mean that as you move it forward try to adjust toe-in so that the speaker continues to point at the spot 18" behind the listening position? Later in that section, you say to "Check that toe-in is correct". By correct, do you mean still pointed at the spot 18" behind the listening position?

****Yes, with any movements of the anchor speaker, insure you keep the toe in the same - 18” behind your head (to start, you may change it later)



2) Towards the end of Step 1, you indicate that once you have the one spot that is the best to move the speaker "slightly in each direction". Do you mean just move it slightly forward and back? Or do you also mean left and right?

*** try moving it a few inches in all directions. Always come back to your reference point.



3) In Step 2, you write that the right speaker should match the "physical toe in of the left" when starting that Step. Just confirming that you mean that the right speaker should also be pointing the same spot 18" behind the listening position. Is that correct?

***Yes



4) In Step 2, you indicate that you "begin sliding the speaker forward". Am I correct that I should adjust the toe-in as I slide the speaker forward so that the right speaker is still pointing at the same spot 18" behind the listening position?

***Yes, Set the toe in before you move it forward and maintain that angle.



5) Can you provide more detail on what you mean by "bass pressure" vs. "bass imaging"? I'm not sure what you mean by "pressure" and how to differentiate it from "imaging".

***For me, it was a feeling of base - more akin to higher volume.



6) In Step 2, you indicate that when you are on the correct spot with the right speaker, the "bass will appear to increase in pace". Can you provide more detail on what you mean by "pace"?

***Yeah, I had no idea what that meant.



7) At the end of Step 2, you say "At this point set toe in and rake the same with each speaker?" As for the toe-in, are you saying that both speakers should still be pointing at this spot 18" behind the listening position?


***Yes


8) In Step 3 and Step 4, you refer a few times to making sure that you don't "lose bass lock". Can you describe what it will sound like if I've lost base lock?



*** I think what that is referring to is when the speakers are best working with the room. This process emphasizes getting the low end optimized before worrying too much about imaging and sound stage.

You can lose lock by moving the speakers only a few inches.

Thank you very much!
__________________
Main Equipment: Kharma Elegance dB11-S, JL Audio F113v2 X 2, Block Audio Line & Mono SE Amplification, Bricasti M21 DAC, Antipodes Kala K-50 Server, Clearaudio Performance SE. Satisfy tonearm & Maestro wood MM cartridge.
Power: Shunyata Everest 8000, Sigma XC v2, Sigma NR v2, Block Audio PCs, Defender, ADDPowr Wizard
Grounding: Shunyata Altaira CGS - 4 X Alpha CGS cables,
Network : Supra Cat 8+, Twin (Nenon) Modified Buffalo GS2016 Switches, Keces P3 LPSU,
Cables: Wireworld Platinum 8 USB, Wireworld Platinum Eclipse 8 Speaker cables, 6M & 1M Tubulus Concentus ICs,
Other: Multiple GIK products, Stillpoint Apertures, Stillpoint Minis and Ultra SS, Three 20 Amp lines, Furutech GTX - Gold outlets, Adona Rack

Last edited by crwilli; 12-31-2021 at 06:52 PM.
Reply With Quote