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-   -   JL Audio Fathom f113 repair (https://www.audioaficionado.org/showthread.php?t=43298)

doggiehowser 06-14-2019 06:22 AM

Iíve just joined the dead F113 club. I was watching Spiderverse a month or so ago and it was still chugging along. But watching Bohemian Rhapsody didnít have as much punch. My Crowson shakers probably masked the loss of the sub.

Wish Iíd seen this thread earlier. I ended up ordering a GoldenEar SuperSub XXL with dual 12Ē and dual passive radiators today.

That arrives on Monday.

In the meantime, this will give me a chance to test my soldering skills. Thanks to the thread starter and the various contributors for the help.

To be fair, the f113 has served me well for 7 years. And it was so impressive I stopped using the Crowson transducers for a long time. I only put it back on to do a demo for a friend.

Would be keen to see how the GoldenEar stacks up.

[emoji51]

jdandy 06-14-2019 09:22 AM

doggiehowser.......If you follow the method described for removing the amp from the f113 subwoofer and replace the caps described, I am relatively confident your Fathom will be back in business for years to come. It is worth repairing. It has been almost a year since I repaired my f113 and it is still working perfectly.

doggiehowser 06-14-2019 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdandy (Post 968624)
doggiehowser.......If you follow the method described for removing the amp from the f113 subwoofer and replace the caps described, I am relatively confident your Fathom will be back in business for years to come. It is worth repairing. It has been almost a year since I repaired my f113 and it is still working perfectly.

About to print out the photos and the instructions. It looks like there are just two large screws holding the plate amp in place?

It's still such an amazing sub. Anyone know what the v2 adds over the v1?

audio bill 06-14-2019 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doggiehowser (Post 968682)
About to print out the photos and the instructions. It looks like there are just two large screws holding the plate amp in place?

It's still such an amazing sub. Anyone know what the v2 adds over the v1?

All of the difference made to the v2 version are detailed here: https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...es-What-s-New-

doggiehowser 06-14-2019 10:07 PM

Thanks audio bill.

doggiehowser 06-15-2019 02:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdandy (Post 968624)
doggiehowser.......If you follow the method described for removing the amp from the f113 subwoofer and replace the caps described, I am relatively confident your Fathom will be back in business for years to come. It is worth repairing. It has been almost a year since I repaired my f113 and it is still working perfectly.

A friend asked me to look for caps at mouser.com

I have never been more confused.

https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...ZKkJBz7qJsY%3D

This doesn't look like the one in the photo

https://au.mouser.com/images/panason...ges/EEH-ZA.jpg



Or is it this one?
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...j0GWHtGlel8%3D

https://au.mouser.com/images/panasonic/lrg/nhg_SPL.jpg

doggiehowser 06-15-2019 02:45 AM

Or this one?

https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...bqUE9MEHeRE%3D

https://au.mouser.com/images/nichico...series_DSL.JPG

Is the spec right?

The Nichicon is only rated for 1000 hours - isn't that a bit short? The Panasonic for 2000

Here's a Panasonic with 6000 hours

https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...52BwKUw0HtM%3D

https://au.mouser.com/images/panason...UFR0J102_t.jpg

I am confused.

W9TR 06-15-2019 07:36 AM

JL Audio Fathom f113 repair
 
Hereís what you do. Once youíve taken the amp out of the sub enclosure, measure the size of the caps you are replacing. Diameter is usually the limiting factor for radial leaded caps.

Then find a replacement cap that is the same diameter with the same capacitance rating and the highest working voltage and temperature rating you can find. If you have a choice, go for the longer base life part as well. A base life of 2000 to 8000 hours is a good target. 1000 hrs is low.

The reason you select parts this way is that voltage stress and temperature stress are the two things that kill electrolytic caps. Itís not linear either.

Doubling the voltage spec will increase life 2.65 times.

Increasing the temp specification is an even bigger life accelerator. Going from an 85 C cap to a 105 C cap when the cap itself is at 50 C will increase the life 4 times.

These effects are multiplicative. So all other things being equal using a 105 degree C cap with twice the voltage rating of the original will increase the life 10.6 times!

I have simplified the math behind these assumptions and can point you to more info if youíd like. I used The ATT Reliability Handbook and MIL HDBK 217 to make these rough calcs.

Tom

doggiehowser 06-18-2019 09:01 AM

Thanks for all the help and pointers.

Iíll try to pull out the amp module over the weekend.

But in the meantime, the GoldenEar is here. And for what I use it for (pure home theatre), itís bloody awesome.

It doesnít have ARO or XLR connections.

But it does pack a punch. And a lot of kick.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fe840a18a0.jpg

jdandy 06-18-2019 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doggiehowser (Post 968733)
A friend asked me to look for caps at mouser.com

I have never been more confused.

doggiehowser.......See post #4 for photos, and post #71 for Mouser parts numbers for the two capacitors.


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