Repair or replace?
 

For a while now, I've been using a PS Audio P10 which was purchased used from a local new/used hifi dealer. Unfortunately, it died and is out of warranty. Specifically, it shuts down after power cycling even with nothing connected.

I'm a fan of Shunyata's products and my cable loom includes several Delta and Alpha V1 and V2 cords, and also an Alpha Ethernet.

PS Audio will repair the P10 with a cap on the repair cost at $1,000. However, freight both ways is likely to run a couple hundred dollars at least and I'm a little worried that because the regenerators are active devices, it could happen again.

So, I'm looking for a little advice. My options are as follows:

1) Repair the P10 (cheapest option in the short term).
2) Trade in the P10 on a P12 or P15 ($3000 and $4500 w/ trade-in discount respectively). Own the newer model with a full warranty.
3) Buy a Shunyata conditioner.

If I go option 3, of course there are several options.

1) Keep the cost down, get a Hydra D6 ($3250)
2) Buy a used Denali V1 ($3000-3500)
3) Buy a new Denali V2 ($5500)
4) Go nuts, buy an Everest and don't look back

Option 1 feels like too much a compromise. I'm sure it's great, but at a similar price option 2 seems to make more sense, assuming I can find one.

Option 3 and 4 are the ideal, except for the cost.

My system:

Focal Sopra No 2
Parasound JC2 BP/JC5
Mola Mola Tambaqui DAC
Mofi Ultradeck/Hana SL/JC3 Jr

Right now, I use the Delta V2's on the DAC and preamp, Alpha V2 to power the amp and an Alpha V1 into a Pangea Octet distributor (bought as a temporary measure).

For my gear level, I suspect the Denali or Denali V2 would be the recommended choice. However, the Everest isn't out of the question budget-wise.

Thoughts? Aside from 8 outlets vs 6 and the larger QR/BB capacity, is there another difference?

Also, would a C19 Alpha NR V1 serve as a decent inlet line or would it hold the performance back significantly? Likely, I'd use that cable to supply any distributor I buy for the time being.

Thanks.

I used to have the p10, in a house that had terrible wiring. It helped quite a bit. But then I moved to a new house with decent wiring and sold it for a Denali 6000s v2. It was a huge upgrade. I bought it through Ivan with a discount, so your price listed isnt what you would pay. In fact, your price looked higher than msrp when I bought mine... Maybe they went up.

Anyway, you might want to fix your p10 just so you can offload it. Otherwise, what would you do with it?

Assuming you don't have terrible wiring (14awg or other issues limiting current), I would go towards the shunyata offerings. I don't have experience with the everest, but I am a believer in keeping your gear all in the same "league" so to speak. I think that Denali is fantastic and would serve you well for less money.

Btw, I am also using a Sigma v1 to feed the Denali. Front end gear only. Amps are straight to the wall with Alpha NR v2 here. Great results.

I suggest you talk to Ivan if you are a subscriber.

I think if I decided against repairing it, I would either give it away to someone who wanted to pay for the repair or offer it back to PS Audio to recycle it, assuming they would pay for freight.

My power is okay. I live in a late-70's house with a dedicated 20A line. However, I'm in a metro area and not terribly far from Intel's fabs, so there is definitely distortion on the A/C line. I think 2.5-2.8% THD was typical and the display on the P10 often showed some waveform clipping. Voltage always seemed to hover around 121-122v.

I think, with a dedicated line, you can ditch the p10 and never look back. Good luck, I'll follow your progress.

Chris… you have a PM.

Will repairing the P10 let you bring in enough on the used market to justify doing the repair? I say sell it and go for a Shunyata. Given your equipment I’d say shoot for no less than a Denali v2. Maybe a repaired P10 might allow you to wait for a used one to appear. Last one I saw listed was about $3800. The Everest would be a great move if you could swing it but you would need to add to it at least a Sigma XC.

Chris… your problem is as good as solved. :ok:

I'm not sure it's worth the hassle. I mean, maybe I'd get $1500-2000 for it, so perhaps I could net $500-$1000 but I'd be stuck shipping a 75lb box multiple times for a return which isn't that large and if there were a problem after-sale, the frustration wouldn't be worth it. I think I'd rather sell it for a few hundred and let the buyer take the risk (or give it to a friend).

There's a used v1 on Audiogon for around $3200 currently. Seems like a fair price but do I really want the older model? I know a guy locally who upgraded from the v1 to the v2 and said it wasn't game-changing, more of a refinement. However, I might have reached a different conclusion than he did. Who knows.

Also, I'm not inclined to go all-in on an Everest + Sigma XC at one time. Too much of an outlay all at once, especially after spending what I did for the Tambaqui.

That price is high. The 6000/S v1 should be about $2500. That’s confirmed by Audiogon’s blue book. I had been keeping an eye on the prices in consideration of selling mine in order to move to the v2.

I don’t really take advantage of the QR/BB technology in my v1 as my amp sounds better plugged into my second dedicated circuit all by itself. The v2 has 3 QR/BB circuits while the v1 has only one (I think). What that means is that each of the duplexes on the v2 are equivalent to just the one “high current” outlet on the v1. Depending on your gear that may be beneficial. I believe the CCI filters are also improved on the v2.

I only have one device that has an analog stage plugged into my v1 (my DAC). That gets the high current outlet while my music server and my EtherRegen each get one of the other outlets to themselves. So the v1 is a pretty good fit for my particular situation.

I should also mention that when I had an analog rig, the v1 worked wonders with it. You really can’t go wrong with a v1. The v2 will be better, but I don’t expect the value of the v1 to drop that much any time soon, so you can always flip it later to move up.

Update: I pulled the trigger yesterday on a Denali 6000 V2.

Thanks Ivan!