I had the same issue with 1 of my F113.I better check the other 1. I believe it was a capciter issue. I called the dealer they came and fixed. Since this is such a common issue they would do something to fix it.

Does anyone know if this problem with capacitors has been addressed by JL with newer (V2?) versions? I just purchased two f110V2 and would like to know if I need to keep an eye out for this problem.

I have had one of my F113v2 subs for ~6 years with no issue at all. Don’t lose any sleep over it.

No, I do not know if JL Audio made any changes to the capacitor from V1 to V2.

From my research, I read somewhere that the Version 2's did have upgraded caps, but not sure if they upgraded the power on cap in my video. It's possible they simply upgraded the power amplifier caps since the Version 2 F113 subs do put out 500W more power compared to the Version 1 F113 subs.

Here is the link to JL's page with the upgrades to the Version 2 subs. I'll also paste the content below for convenience.
Link: https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...es-What-s-New-

Gotham and Fathom v2 Upgrades - What's New?

Our Gotham® and Fathom® v2 powered home subwoofers are clear statements of our commitment to the pursuit of great audio. Below is a summary of all updates and improvements implemented in the Gotham® v2 and all Fathom® v2 subwoofer systems, in comparison to the original Gotham® and Fathom® models.

Driver Enhancements!
All v2 subwoofer drivers have modified suspensions for greater linearity and lower distortion.

More Power!
The v2 powered subwoofer amplifiers have been further optimized, with all-new layouts and upgraded components, resulting in increased power output and efficiency. The net result is a 20% increase in available power.
https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...1-v2_power.png

A.R.O. Goes Digital!
Our innovative A.R.O. (Automatic Room Optimization) system gets a complete overhaul, creating an even more powerful tool!

D.A.R.O. (Digital Automatic Room Optimization) now includes 18 bands of digital EQ correction making it capable of correcting more complex frequency errors.
Each band is independently and automatically adjusted during calibration
The system applies an automatic global level adjustment to maintain equal loudness, post-calibration.
Calibration stimulus is now band-limited pink noise with measurement averaging – this means more in-room noise immunity, making measurements more reliable and repeatable.
One button operation makes D.A.R.O. easier to use. Subwoofer output levels and mic gain are set automatically, requiring no user intervention. This results in more reliable calibration.
Calibration data is easily cleared with the press of two buttons.

Even More Improvements!
Further circuitry enhancements used in all v2 models result in improved performance and efficiency.

Analog input/output circuits, as well as the digital signal flow have been upgraded for improved small-signal linearity and significantly better noise performance.
Unbalanced input signal isolation circuitry has been modified, improving signal-to-noise performance.
The mechanical layout of the low-level circuits has been revamped - audio signals no longer pass though the front control panel, significantly simplifying internal wiring and improving audio performance.
All small-signal circuitry is housed within a separate, cast-aluminum enclosure, with signal and AC power circuits isolated from one another, for improved noise rejection.
For ease of service, the main AC power fuse is now externally accessible.

My cap repair video for reference:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMY1xldQP2Q&t=856s

My v1 is in for service too.

Too bad they used crap capacitors. I’d have gladly paid a bit more up front to have more longevity. I Hate when cheap parts are found in expensive gear.

Yup, I upgraded every one of my V1’s to V2’s years ago; all 14 of them. :confused-18:

So after 14 years my JL Audio f113 is starting to act up. The power is fine but getting static. I’m not sure if anyone has had any static issues with their subwoofer and if so was it one of the capacitors?

I’m on the fence with do I just replace all the capacitors when I open it up or just send to JL Audio for their flat fee fix.

If I decide to send to JL Audio do they accept just the back amplifier plate or do I have to send the entire subfloor?

Paul - can't answer your question concerning what to send to JLA, but am wondering if you've tested your f113 with another set of preamp outputs and cables to insure it is the sub rather than something else?

Hi Glenn, I have not done any testing. I will try another set of preamp outputs and cables to see if it is the sub or something else?

Thanks :thumbsup:

Paul… it is your Sub; and yes you can send them just your Amp Plate. Once you arrange an RMA, they will send you simple instructions on how to remove the amp plate.