Andrew, an honour to have you here! :welcome2.:
|
Quote:
Hi Andrew, welcome, I guess you mean Magico S1's instead of M1's ? |
Thanks for taking your time to respond on this forum which is greatly appreciated.
I am curious how far your seating position was from the speakers? You mentioned in your review you were only 8 to 9 feet away. I read that B&W claims you should be at least 9 foot 10 inches away for optimal integration between the drivers for best sound and would appreciate your comments on this. You mentioned that you like to listen in the near field and you found yourself “leaning in to fully engage with the music”. I am wondering if this is due to your seating distance from the speakers? Can you also comment on how much tow in you used and if you tilted the speakers forward based on the tweeter height in relation to your ears at your seating position? From my experience all of these parameters considerably changes the sound at my listening position with my 802 D3’s in house. |
Welcome to the forum Andrew, thank you for giving us your insight!
|
More on 801 D4 placement in a small-ish room.
Sad to say that the 801 D4s are just a fond memory. But my best recollection is that my ears were 8.5" from the front plane of the front plane of the speakers.
When I angle loudspeakers in toward the listening position to achieve the best imaging, I work with a friend using a white noise track on endless repeat. We keep changing the angle until there's a discreet "blob" of sound located centrally and when one moves his head from side to side, there's an imaginary boundary crossed where the character of the noise changes. This tedious exercise does seem to correspond to the most continuous and specific imaging when music is played. A good point to start the process, we've found, is having the speakers aimed in a way so that imaginary lines from the middle of the tweeter cross just in front of the listener's head. I do attempt to adjust a speaker's spikes not just for leveling but to be sure that, as much as possible, the tweeter are aimed at ear level. I'm certain all of you do as well. The "leaning in" was my clue that I needed a more robust amplifier to get the 801s to sound their considerable best. My experience was the same with my Berning Quadrature Z monoblocks that are rated at 200 wpc. (Although all 200 wpc amps aren't created equal, of course.) It was only when I borrowed the Tidal integrated that the sound was as authoritative, and the bass was fully controlled. (The room frequency sweeps were quite different with the Pass XO 80.6s and the TIDAL Intra, with some messiness in the lower octaves nearly completely eliminated.) This isn't the first speaker I've had this problem with and, as a result, I just sold the Bernings and have a pair of TIDAL Ferios coming in a month or so. They ought to handle just about anything. My main speakers are neither Magico M1s (which don't exist) or S1s (which I have for rear speakers when I listen to m-c music. They're M2s.. Sorry about that. |
Thanks for clarifying, Andrew. I did not comment before, but I was confused because I could not quite believe that Absolute Sound would have reviewed a pair of speakers in an inappropriate room. Cheers
|
Hello Andrew and very glad to have you on AA. I read your comprehensive review and thought it was informative, well written, and honest. After reading it and thinking about it, the conclusion I came to was that it had to be your room, since the speaker is rated at 8 ohms and goes down to 15 Hz. It should not need a subwoofer. It should be relatively easy to drive. The roll off beginning at 38 Hz was perplexing as was the change in the frequency response with the various amps. When I am evaluating a speaker for purchase, I want to know how it sounds without a sub. It's unusual for speaker like this to require a sub. I do not believe the speaker worked well in your room. Just my opinion.
Best Charles __________________________________________________ _ Charles Updated System: Wilson McIntosh Audioquest New gear on order: McIntosh MC3500 MK II mono power amp, one per channel; custom granite slabs to set my MC3500 MKII’s; 3 AS125 custom made McIntosh amps stands Most recent updates: Latest is the last one posted: AQ Diamond USB replaces AQ Coffee; Wilson Audio Specialties Alexx replaced by Wilson Audio Specialties XVX Chronosonic; new subwoofer crossover; new Galaxy Grey Thors Hammer; Wilson Pedestals; heating and cooling completely reworked and reinsulated resulting in a much quieter, cooler, and more efficient room (cost about 10,000.00). McIntosh MCT 500 SACD/CD transport. Wilson Audio Acoustic Diode for XVX Chronosonic. WEL Signature digital Coaxial cable for MVP 881/D1100 digital connection replacing the optical connection. New plinth for Thor subwoofer made of X material with the Wilson Acoustic Diodes. Thor is now off my floor. Amps: McIntosh 1.25KW’s (3) set on floor on custom made granite slabs Preamp and DAC: McIntosh D1100 Sources: McIntosh MCT500 SACD/CD Transport, MVP881 BR player, MVP851 DVD player, MR87 tuner, Marantz 510LV Laser Disc player, ASUS laptop USB (JRiver Media Center 23) Speakers: Wilson Audio Specialties XVX Chronosonic; custom made Wilson Acoustic Diodes Sub-woofer: Wilson Audio Specialties Thor’s Hammer (1) horizontal lie and Wilson Watch Controller (abbr: WC); custom plinth of X material with Wilson Acoustic Diode feet Cables main system: Audioquest WEL Signature speaker cables and balanced IC (preamp to amps); WEL Signature AES/EBU balanced digital IC for CD playback; WEL Signature digital coaxial cable for MVP 881/D1100 digital connection; Audioquest Diamond optical (1) for tuner, (1) for MVP 851 DVD player, and (1) for LD player for total of (3); Audioquest Diamond USB cable; McIntosh MCT cable for SACD playback; Dragon power cords (5 HC cords and 3 source cords for total of 8); Thunder HC power cord for MR87 tuner Cables subwoofer system: Audioquest Redwood speaker cable (1); Wolf balanced subwoofer IC from WC to amp; Wind balanced IC from preamp to WC; Hurricane HC (2) and Dragon HC (1) power cords Power conditioners: Audioquest Niagara 7000 (1) and Niagara 5000 (3); (4) dedicated 20-amp lines with no. 10 wire straight out of fuse box Isolation: Wilson Pedestals for D1100; MVP881 BR player; MCT500 transport; MR87 tuner; plinth for Thor subwoofer made of X material with the Wilson Acoustic Diodes Cabinet: Double Custom Woodwork & Design (CWD) solid walnut cabinet on large casters; holds all sources and preamp; also, Niagara 7000; 11 feet minimum distance from speakers Acoustic Treatments: Room and Echo Tunes AC: Dedicated to this room only, an ultra-high efficiency and quiet recently installed Ruud split system 3-ton heat pump. |
801 D4 powered by Denon AVR X8500H
Hi,
The 801 D4 are on it's way. Can they be powered by the Denon AVR X8500H? Thank you kindly. Cheers Caesar |
Caesarius, welcome to AA. Huge congrats on your 801D4s! They are tremendous speakers and worthy of a flagship designation.
Although the Denon AVR X8500H has all the bells and whistles, its power may not fully maximize all the performance you’ve paid for in the 801s. In my opinion, the 801s will definitely benefit from gobs of power. If you have or are considering the Denon AVR, I’d suspect you have other configurations in mind. Lots of friendly, experienced, and expert AAs here so I’m sure they will chime in. |
Caesarius… Welcome to AA! :wave:
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:20 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.10
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
©Copyright 2009-2023 AudioAficionado.org.Privately owned, All Rights Reserved.